The Wonders of US Customs

We had arrived yesterday in Culebra at lunchtime to allow plenty of time to clear Croix des Gardes into the US Protectorate. We were stymied when we were told we had to find our own way to the inland airport and would not be seen before 10am the next morning. We had intended to clear in and continue the 55nm to San Juan so suggested we remain aboard and continue to the capital as planned to clear in there. The officer agreed.

We had a quiet night in a bay off Culebra where the children swam off the boat but we were careful not to go ashore. In the night, the wind swung round 270 degrees which kept James then me up most of the night checking the anchor. At 4am I decided enough was enough and we set off in the dark for San Juan. The initial passage was to travel up inside the cays and reefs that join the northern edges of Puerto Rico to Culebra so we needed to make sure we arrived at the San Juan Passage in daylight.

The wind was a light northerly and I ran under full sail whilst James slept. Within an hour, the wind had strengthened and backed a little, then the rain started. We had a miserable crossing in the end with increasing wind as a cold front passed, bringing increasing swells and 4m waves. To top it all, April the autohelm failed to boot up so we had to helm by hand in heavy seas. When we reached San Juan, both children were sick (Elizabeth four times) and we were aching and soaked. I have never been so grateful to enter a large industrial port in my life, although the entrance was a bit sporting with the large swell running in whilst we had to gybe to make the channel.

We anchored twice in the harbour (the pilot suggested we move after our first attempt) and again tried to clear in. This time their computers were down so we had to wait, and wait, and wait. Then they were all in a training meeting, then they couldn’t ring a UK number, then it was shift change. I thought we would be trapped aboard forever. We tried to entertain the kids by showing “Ponyo” on the DVD (the story features the sea taking revenge with huge waves etc). On the plus side, we are anchored near the children’s favourite superyacht, Panthalassa! Regardless of how long it takes, we cannot make the next four day crossing to the Bahamas without an autohelm.

After four hours of trying and countless phone calls, we finally spole to a customs officer who was extremely helpful. We rushed ashore to meet the 6pm deadline and piled inot a taxi which took us to the wrong place. So we piled inot another taxi and cleared in. We now have US entry and a cruising permit for Croix des Gardes.

To celebrate, we ate at the “Sizzlers” diner at the marina which included an unlimited buffet. All of us are now stuffed on steak, fries, salads, texmex and ice-creams.