We still haven't slept properly! Each day, the amazing team here has arranged another wonderful experience for us, culminating in a rally sail to the north today. We stumbled into our first full day ashore last Friday in a haze of rum and spent the morning sorting out odd jobs aboard and finding our feet again. We've had some teething probelms with the cruising kit - we managed to take both outboards out of service and the rib has developed a slow leak; and the shore power here is two-phase 110V and there are no adapters for us. We're settled now and James has jsut taken he children round to the beach in the rib for an early morning dip. Even Matthew has loved swimming and got his head wet and splashed without trauma.
Friday night was the cocktail party at the Barbados Yacht Club with another free bar and some stirring speeches from the officials. Barbados is genuinely pleased to greet us as they try to improve their image as a yachting destination.
The drinking hadn't even finished when the next yacht arrived. We were waiting on he quay at 3am as the excitement amongst those of us already here grew and the drinks flowed. At 4am we heard she was near and we raced out in the dark in the support boats to greet her. She looked stunning, bowling in on a broad reach under full sail - traditional red cotton mail and staysail with white genoa and topsail. We left her to stow her sails and rushed back to the quay where we greeted her with cheers, flares and, of course, rum. As the bars were closed, the three immigration officials had to use park benches as their offices to clear the crew in.
The sun was rising by then so we stayed up to greet the day. The team had arranged a visit to the local Mount Gay Rum factory so the drinking resumed early. We were treated to a welcome rum punch, three tastings and then more rum cocktails. We then hurried back to greet the next yacht home, Cipango.
Cipango had lost her engine so James and I took Francois out in our rib to help guide her in. Again, the applause was mighty as she entered the docks and, you guessed it, the rum flowed. We then spent the afternoon on the local beach before returning to greet Gimcrack. She entered just after sunset.
We had meant to have a quiet evening with no official events, but the arrival of these three meant that the boats all hosted an informal party. We ended up on Gweneven drinking more rum punches until the early hours. She is a wonderfully fitted out race machine, and our steady progress literally got the wind up her as she raced to pull away in the final days.
We have been greeted by fellow BCYC members, Peter and Jo and hope to be joined by them for today's sail if they can get over here in time. Dave and Ollie have an invitation to sail on The Blue Peter and Morgan from Artaius will join us. We'll return in time for another quick swim and then it's the official Prize Giving Reception and dinner tonight on the west coast of this wonderful island.
Sunday 30 December 2012
Friday 28 December 2012
Barbados Welcome
Yesterday gave us our best weather yet. The wind was perfect for us to run fast under full sail and we made great time. The sun went down as we made landfall and we watched the lights on Barbados come alive. Two local boats ran out to meet us whilst we were still five miles away and their cheers followed us in. We crossed the finish line at 1949 local time, 2349GMT, almost exactly twenty five and a half days after the start.
We dropped our sails, started the engine and followed the committee boat in. Unknown to us, they had arranged for us to come directly into the historic centre of Bridgetown. James looked apprehensive as we negotiated the extremely tight river entrance and through the raised bridge into the riotous centre of the capital. The river was lined with bars, filled with people shouting and cheering us and even a trumpeter raised a salute. We turned stern to and the quay was utterly filled with cheering crowds, both of locals, tourist and the other boats. All raised three cheers and chanted our name.
The organisers swapped our lines for rum (and juice for the children) as we waited to clear customs (this was apparently done in a back room of one of the bars down the river). Once ashore, everyone wanted to congratulate us in person and see the children. They were sorely disappointed that Matthew had already gone to sleep, but Elizabeth lapped up the attention. She was rather quiet so I asked her if she was OK and she replied "I'm so happy I think I might be about to cry!"
Among the well-wishers was one of the teachers of the class who had been following our progress and her family. They were so knowledgeable about us and the history of our boat. They will return to visit us aboard this week. We heard later that we were the only arrival to have such an amazing reception as everyone wanted to meet the amazing children who had sailed with us, and we had arrived literally just in time for the Mount Gay Rum party so we were dragged into one of the bars to drink and swap stories with the crews.
The morning dawned bright and sunny. We've been sharing more stories with the boats and sorting ourselves out. The decks are clean, the sun awning up and the wonderful Blue Peter have just given us their main, genoa and a spinnaker. We are now off to the beach for a swim and then it's cocktails at the Barbados Yacht Club with the CEO of Panerai tonight.
Now we begin to unwind and relax. The pace of life here is slower and the local internet is marginal so updates will be less frequent. Thanks to all of you who have followed our progress in this amazing race and we hope to catch up with you all in person next year and share our tales.
We dropped our sails, started the engine and followed the committee boat in. Unknown to us, they had arranged for us to come directly into the historic centre of Bridgetown. James looked apprehensive as we negotiated the extremely tight river entrance and through the raised bridge into the riotous centre of the capital. The river was lined with bars, filled with people shouting and cheering us and even a trumpeter raised a salute. We turned stern to and the quay was utterly filled with cheering crowds, both of locals, tourist and the other boats. All raised three cheers and chanted our name.
The organisers swapped our lines for rum (and juice for the children) as we waited to clear customs (this was apparently done in a back room of one of the bars down the river). Once ashore, everyone wanted to congratulate us in person and see the children. They were sorely disappointed that Matthew had already gone to sleep, but Elizabeth lapped up the attention. She was rather quiet so I asked her if she was OK and she replied "I'm so happy I think I might be about to cry!"
Among the well-wishers was one of the teachers of the class who had been following our progress and her family. They were so knowledgeable about us and the history of our boat. They will return to visit us aboard this week. We heard later that we were the only arrival to have such an amazing reception as everyone wanted to meet the amazing children who had sailed with us, and we had arrived literally just in time for the Mount Gay Rum party so we were dragged into one of the bars to drink and swap stories with the crews.
The morning dawned bright and sunny. We've been sharing more stories with the boats and sorting ourselves out. The decks are clean, the sun awning up and the wonderful Blue Peter have just given us their main, genoa and a spinnaker. We are now off to the beach for a swim and then it's cocktails at the Barbados Yacht Club with the CEO of Panerai tonight.
Now we begin to unwind and relax. The pace of life here is slower and the local internet is marginal so updates will be less frequent. Thanks to all of you who have followed our progress in this amazing race and we hope to catch up with you all in person next year and share our tales.
Thursday 27 December 2012
D+25 Finish
We have now only a few hours left to run and James is searching for the first glimpse of Barbados. After weeks of indifferent winds, we finally have a steady breeze and are making good time. Elizabeth is very excited that we are nearly there and can't wait for her first visit to a beach tomorrow. Matthew is nonplussed and more interested that we have finally charged his Ninetendo DS.
It is quite a strange feeling to think that this portion of our voyage is over. I can understand how Mautissier may have felt when nearing the end of the first solo non-stop circumnavigation and deciding to just keep going. The endless sea encompasses our horizon and the yacht is our steady companion, continuing her progress day and night whilst we keep watch. Her motion has become ours and the gentle fizz of the water as it it is parted by her bows accompanies her creaks and sighs. It is difficult to think about a life ashore with its noise and bustle again.
We will cross the line after nightfall. The crew are now showering and we will all be in our team shirts and will illuminate Croix des Gardes from her deck lights for the final mile. We expect to be met by the committee rib and then escorted to the commercial harbour to clear customs before we can anchor off the Barbados Yacht Club for the night. Tomorrow, we will be allowed to berth in the yacht club marina and begin to enjoy the fruits of our voyage.
It is quite a strange feeling to think that this portion of our voyage is over. I can understand how Mautissier may have felt when nearing the end of the first solo non-stop circumnavigation and deciding to just keep going. The endless sea encompasses our horizon and the yacht is our steady companion, continuing her progress day and night whilst we keep watch. Her motion has become ours and the gentle fizz of the water as it it is parted by her bows accompanies her creaks and sighs. It is difficult to think about a life ashore with its noise and bustle again.
We will cross the line after nightfall. The crew are now showering and we will all be in our team shirts and will illuminate Croix des Gardes from her deck lights for the final mile. We expect to be met by the committee rib and then escorted to the commercial harbour to clear customs before we can anchor off the Barbados Yacht Club for the night. Tomorrow, we will be allowed to berth in the yacht club marina and begin to enjoy the fruits of our voyage.
Wednesday 26 December 2012
D+24 Anticipation
The signs that we are approaching landfall are increasing. With 400nm to run, we passed 15 miles south of the remote yellow ODAS buoy off Researcher Ridge. With 300nm to run, we were joined by a Magnificent Frigatebird which circled the boat. Shortly afterward, we passed close to a lost fishing buoy with a length of rope attached. Underneath was sheltering a very lost large grouper. These are reef fish, normally not found deeper than 30m where they loiter just off the bottom or under ledges. This one was in 4km of ocean water, drifting with just the float as a liferaft. With 200nm to run, we saw a Brown Booby that fished off our stern for some time, feasting on our ever present companions, the flying fish.
We also met another yacht bound for Barbados. Despite our lack of spinnaker, we overhauled "Bluebird" in light airs yesterday afternoon and hope to catch up with her at our destination. Despite only 11 days at sea after leaving Cape Verde, tehy asked if we had any spare cigarettes aboard. Alas, we are all non-smokers.
We are down to the last of our supplies. The only perishables that remain are two tubs of butter, some cheese and a handful of onions. For supper, we had to raid the tinned goods so had to make do with some olive oil and rosemary crackers served with a rather fine terrine de lievre and fois gras. The children have now rebelled against their Portuguese breakfast cereal and also refused porridge, so I relented and ran up some flapjacks to get them to eat the porridge in disguise. Other than that, we're back in our usual weekday regime, with both children starting the day with maths puzzles and then continuing their crafts from yesterday.
It's so hot that your feet hurt to walk on the decks. We shall dunk the children in the sea again later.
The fabled trade winds have proved a feeble affair. Where the forecast told us we were experiencing a brisk 15-20kt breeze, the actual winds have been far lighter and more fickle. We had hoped to make a steady 6-7kts for this final run but have already reduced to more like 5kt. However, we still reckon to arrive in Barbados tomorrow night, and may well be the last boat home before the line closes at midnight on December 28th. Our thoughts are with the crews still behind us, especially the valiant Marie des Isles. I do hope she arrives before we have to move on.
We also met another yacht bound for Barbados. Despite our lack of spinnaker, we overhauled "Bluebird" in light airs yesterday afternoon and hope to catch up with her at our destination. Despite only 11 days at sea after leaving Cape Verde, tehy asked if we had any spare cigarettes aboard. Alas, we are all non-smokers.
We are down to the last of our supplies. The only perishables that remain are two tubs of butter, some cheese and a handful of onions. For supper, we had to raid the tinned goods so had to make do with some olive oil and rosemary crackers served with a rather fine terrine de lievre and fois gras. The children have now rebelled against their Portuguese breakfast cereal and also refused porridge, so I relented and ran up some flapjacks to get them to eat the porridge in disguise. Other than that, we're back in our usual weekday regime, with both children starting the day with maths puzzles and then continuing their crafts from yesterday.
It's so hot that your feet hurt to walk on the decks. We shall dunk the children in the sea again later.
The fabled trade winds have proved a feeble affair. Where the forecast told us we were experiencing a brisk 15-20kt breeze, the actual winds have been far lighter and more fickle. We had hoped to make a steady 6-7kts for this final run but have already reduced to more like 5kt. However, we still reckon to arrive in Barbados tomorrow night, and may well be the last boat home before the line closes at midnight on December 28th. Our thoughts are with the crews still behind us, especially the valiant Marie des Isles. I do hope she arrives before we have to move on.
Tuesday 25 December 2012
D+23 Christmas
Ollie had brought a selection of tacky Christmas songs to remind us of home and these have been playing on a conitnuous loop throughout the boat today.
Our boat isn't quite as dry as it had been - we had Mount Gay rum with coffee and Christmas cake mid morning as we thought of our friends in he boats who have already arrived. Christmas lunch was served formally down below with all the trimmings, our last bottle of bubbly and Christmas crackers. Elizabeth and Matthew received embroidered souvenir bookmarks of this trip, Elizabeth made James a knotted wrist-band, whilst Ollie and Dave received a monkey's fist key ring fob and a Willy Wonka style "golden ticket" for a free passage to Barbados. Dinner was followed by homemade Christmas pudding with brandy butter and rum sauce. Needless to say, everyone is feeling a bit sleepy now.
Elizabeth says "I am having a great time so far and I can't wait to get to Barbados. I'm looking forward to seeing the Space Centre in Florida and the rain forest of St.Lucia and Dominica, and swimming with the fishes." Matthew doesn't have a message.
337 miles to run : )
Monday 24 December 2012
Christmas Cometh
The festivities have begun aboard Croix des Gardes. The wind has dropped slightly, giving us a smoother ride. Afternoon tea was taken at the traditional time of 3pm to the accompaniment of a lone chorister (Elizabeth) singing "Once in Royal David's City". We could really have been at King's College, Cambridge for the traditional ceremony of carols, were it not for the weather. We cut our Christmas cake too (thanks, Julie) and the children drank a festive cup of cranberry juice.
James has inspected the masthead after last night's spinnaker failure. The shackle has also damaged the bolt fitting it was attached to - the one that holds the forestay to the masthead. It is holding and looks fair, but we won't be able to fly the spinnaker again until we can get up there and replace it (remove the forestay). We will be doing best speed under plain sail only. Those sails too are looking even more shabby than usual. James reckons from the cut and manufacturer that they date from the 1980s. No wonder they are so flabby. It's a far cry from the racing boats who replace their canvas every season. There is an outside chance that one of the boats is planning on replacing their sails and may let us have the 'worn' set, which will still be light years better than our rig.
Merry Christmas to all at home - sending you our thoughts and hopefully some of our warm sunshine.
James has inspected the masthead after last night's spinnaker failure. The shackle has also damaged the bolt fitting it was attached to - the one that holds the forestay to the masthead. It is holding and looks fair, but we won't be able to fly the spinnaker again until we can get up there and replace it (remove the forestay). We will be doing best speed under plain sail only. Those sails too are looking even more shabby than usual. James reckons from the cut and manufacturer that they date from the 1980s. No wonder they are so flabby. It's a far cry from the racing boats who replace their canvas every season. There is an outside chance that one of the boats is planning on replacing their sails and may let us have the 'worn' set, which will still be light years better than our rig.
Merry Christmas to all at home - sending you our thoughts and hopefully some of our warm sunshine.
D+22 Crises Averted
We are still rattling along apace and James is happier to push the boat a little more now the end is so close. We averaged 7kts yesterday with some hairy moments as high as 11kts and somewhat out of control. Just before supper (pork slow roasted in red wine sauce with sautee potatoes and rhubarb crumble) I called "Is there anything anyone can do to calm down theboat a bit whilst I serve?" We were rolling wildly 30 degrees either way and swerving about under the spinnaker. Almost immediately afterward, there was a loud crack and lots of shouting - the shackle on the spinnaker halyard broke, depositing the sail in the sea. We were lucky not to run it over and retrieved it from the sea before dining under mainsail only.
The night was equally wild - we now were running dead downwind under poled genoa and main. The wind was all over the place so we spent the night rolling crazily, reefing and unreefing sails to try to maintain speed. I'm not sure the crew can handle this pace for another four days. Goodness knows how the front runners keep up with the pressure of pushing their boats to the limit for so long. I'm looking forward to cruising and dropping our speed by 20%.
Come morning, we all needed a wash, so the water maker decided to blow another union. James then stripped the thread whilst reconnecting it and spent the morning fixing things yet again. Lunch was equally wild - most of our Christmas Eve repast ended up on the cockpit floor or over the side. It was a shame to lose the French terrines. Tomorrow's Christmas lunch looks like it will prove an extreme challenge.
The children have been brilliant - Elizabeth got up during my watch and joined me at 5am whilst I was attempting to single-handedly reef the genoa. Both seem to have forgotten the usual routines as they both settled for a productive morning's schooling despite their peers being on holiday.
I feel sorry that we failed to stash a Santa gift for them before we left, but we shall make the lack of gifts up to them when we eventually arrive in Barbados.
The night was equally wild - we now were running dead downwind under poled genoa and main. The wind was all over the place so we spent the night rolling crazily, reefing and unreefing sails to try to maintain speed. I'm not sure the crew can handle this pace for another four days. Goodness knows how the front runners keep up with the pressure of pushing their boats to the limit for so long. I'm looking forward to cruising and dropping our speed by 20%.
Come morning, we all needed a wash, so the water maker decided to blow another union. James then stripped the thread whilst reconnecting it and spent the morning fixing things yet again. Lunch was equally wild - most of our Christmas Eve repast ended up on the cockpit floor or over the side. It was a shame to lose the French terrines. Tomorrow's Christmas lunch looks like it will prove an extreme challenge.
The children have been brilliant - Elizabeth got up during my watch and joined me at 5am whilst I was attempting to single-handedly reef the genoa. Both seem to have forgotten the usual routines as they both settled for a productive morning's schooling despite their peers being on holiday.
I feel sorry that we failed to stash a Santa gift for them before we left, but we shall make the lack of gifts up to them when we eventually arrive in Barbados.
Sunday 23 December 2012
D+21 Mid Atlantic Ridge
21 days after we left Cascais, the leading boats are finishing. Congratulations to White Dolphin, Red Hackle and Blue Peter. Perhaps we should have included a colour in our name to bring us better speed?
We are at 15N 49W and in the area of the Mid Atlantic Ridge. This is an amazing area of ocean full of hydrothermal vents. Scientists only discovered the astonishing ecosystems that live here in the 1970s by accident whilst undertaking a survey of the ocean floor. This ecosystem exists with no dependence on the light of the sun - instead the primary energy source comes from the vents themselves. It is debated if this could be the real origin of life on earth before organisms developed chlorophyll.
Our "Keep Sunday Special" campaign continues - we're out of eggs for the traditional Sunday fry up breakfast so had to be content with bacon, sausages and baked beans this morning. The crew are currently ensconced in the saloon watching "Avatar" and the ice cream is soon to be served.
All the crew are looking forward to arrival - should still be the 27th if we don't run into any more slow patches. We've had some questions about our choice of route. Cruising advice is "head south until the butter melts and then head west." Well,, we ran south until both the butter and the chocolate melted. Cruising advice is also to head for 20N 30W before going west. We also did this but the pesky cols have been forming progressively further south each time.
We were too slow to make any significant way south to react to the forecasts and each successive forecast would place the slack 100nm from the previous making planning very difficult for a boat that was only doing 100nm per day in the light conditions. In the end, it was quicker to press on a direct course and sit out the col than to divert as far south as Gimcrack and Cipango have. Boats like Valteam and Gwen-Even are just that much faster than us and quicker in light airs so left us standing.
Still, we're now anticipating a good run and are preparing for Christmas at sea. Thank you everyone who has followed our progress and commented - it's been fantastic to receive them all and James was pleased at the volume of birthday well-wishers.
We are at 15N 49W and in the area of the Mid Atlantic Ridge. This is an amazing area of ocean full of hydrothermal vents. Scientists only discovered the astonishing ecosystems that live here in the 1970s by accident whilst undertaking a survey of the ocean floor. This ecosystem exists with no dependence on the light of the sun - instead the primary energy source comes from the vents themselves. It is debated if this could be the real origin of life on earth before organisms developed chlorophyll.
Our "Keep Sunday Special" campaign continues - we're out of eggs for the traditional Sunday fry up breakfast so had to be content with bacon, sausages and baked beans this morning. The crew are currently ensconced in the saloon watching "Avatar" and the ice cream is soon to be served.
All the crew are looking forward to arrival - should still be the 27th if we don't run into any more slow patches. We've had some questions about our choice of route. Cruising advice is "head south until the butter melts and then head west." Well,, we ran south until both the butter and the chocolate melted. Cruising advice is also to head for 20N 30W before going west. We also did this but the pesky cols have been forming progressively further south each time.
We were too slow to make any significant way south to react to the forecasts and each successive forecast would place the slack 100nm from the previous making planning very difficult for a boat that was only doing 100nm per day in the light conditions. In the end, it was quicker to press on a direct course and sit out the col than to divert as far south as Gimcrack and Cipango have. Boats like Valteam and Gwen-Even are just that much faster than us and quicker in light airs so left us standing.
Still, we're now anticipating a good run and are preparing for Christmas at sea. Thank you everyone who has followed our progress and commented - it's been fantastic to receive them all and James was pleased at the volume of birthday well-wishers.
Saturday 22 December 2012
D+20 Overboard
Similarly, we have to minimise packaging as there are no bins at sea either – we carry our waste with us. We tried to remove excess packaging at source, for example buying a crate of vegetables at the local market and choosing bulk hams and cheeses over smaller packs. The litter we create stays aboard in accordance with the race instructions. The only thing that goes overboard is food waste. Our main waste items are cellophane and tetra-paks which we washed in sea water, but now these are starting to smell. Our litter is stowed in the poop locker.
Unfortunately, one item of plastic did escape overboard. Last night, the children were playing with James' birthday balloons and threw one out of the forehatch. All balloons were then burst and added to the litter bags.
The crew have also been overboard. We have been slopping around so slowly that James suggested a swim. We put the boarding ladder over the side and trailed a bow line in the water and everyone had a marvellous swim. The water was balmy - around 29 degrees - and infinitely clear as far as we could see. It is quite odd to think that we were in water 5km deep. Alas, there were no fish to share it with us.
After our swim, we had a visitation. A Sunsail 41 on a delivery trip had spotted us and wandered over for a chat and to see if we needed assistance (who in their right minds would not be motoring in this calm?). As fellow Brits, they tried to persuade us to part with our last gas cylinder as they were nearly out already and were in need of tea. After some jolly banter, they motored on their way and left us to a sloshy night going nowhere. We hope the wind picks up again soon.
Friday 21 December 2012
D+19 Waiting
Another day, another lull. There is an insignificant breeze on the beam but not enough to get us moving under plain sails and too shy for the spinnaker. "If only we had a cruising chute!" Oh, but we do, only James left it at home as he didn't think we'd need it. Oh well. Despite the low speeds today (and probabaly tomorrow too), we should still arrive December 27th and look forward to a decent breeze again.
It's really quiet out here. We've not seen another vessel for ten days since we left the vicinity of the Canary Islands. We are off any recognised shipping routes as only yachts travel to these latitudes in search of fair winds. Our competitors have been well out of sight for a very long time. Lookout becomes more sparse but we do have an alarm set on the EchoMax. We did receive a radar sweep last night from something but it never got close enough to register on the AIS, let alone for us to actually see it.
Last night was exceptionally clear. We all watched the sun sink into the far horizon but failed to spot the green flash. We have now passed 45W and so ships time has slipped another hour to GMT-3. Even the wildlife is quiet in these conditions and we only have our daily flying fish for company. They clatter about when they land on deck until they can be flung back into the sea. James had a shock last night when he stuck his head out to feel the wind and a flying fish hit him on the cheek.
It's really quiet out here. We've not seen another vessel for ten days since we left the vicinity of the Canary Islands. We are off any recognised shipping routes as only yachts travel to these latitudes in search of fair winds. Our competitors have been well out of sight for a very long time. Lookout becomes more sparse but we do have an alarm set on the EchoMax. We did receive a radar sweep last night from something but it never got close enough to register on the AIS, let alone for us to actually see it.
Last night was exceptionally clear. We all watched the sun sink into the far horizon but failed to spot the green flash. We have now passed 45W and so ships time has slipped another hour to GMT-3. Even the wildlife is quiet in these conditions and we only have our daily flying fish for company. They clatter about when they land on deck until they can be flung back into the sea. James had a shock last night when he stuck his head out to feel the wind and a flying fish hit him on the cheek.
Thursday 20 December 2012
D+18 Birthday
Today is James' 44th birthday, and his 3rd at sea. He awoke to Elizabeth looking sheepish after accidentally popping one of the twenty balloons that had mysteriously arrived overnight. The children had made cards and written a story for him (about a skeleton, a man and a ghost...) and performed a finger puppet play; I gave him a skeleton tie and a pot of Fortnum and Mason's Gentleman's Relish and we breakfasted on freshly baked pain au chocolat. It's amazing what you can squirrel away on board without anyone knowing. The cake was also from Fortnum's and laced with single malt whiskey. Lunch was a chilled fish smorgasbord with champagne - including caviar, squid in ink sauce, salmon, teriyaki mackerel and herring in mustard and dill - and supper will be roast duck with cherries so long as the swell calms down little. I have enough galley scars already. James is now taking a celebratory shower to mark the occasion.
Last night, Matthew and I watched Jupiter rise and Mars set, and then spied Uranus close to the moon. The morning saw Saturn rise, followed by Venus and Mercury. We are also far enough south to spot the Southern Cross low in the sky as well as Polaris.
No more wildlife for us, but we hear that a following boat, Gimcrack, had an bump with a whale yesterday, fortunately without damage to either party.
Last night, Matthew and I watched Jupiter rise and Mars set, and then spied Uranus close to the moon. The morning saw Saturn rise, followed by Venus and Mercury. We are also far enough south to spot the Southern Cross low in the sky as well as Polaris.
No more wildlife for us, but we hear that a following boat, Gimcrack, had an bump with a whale yesterday, fortunately without damage to either party.
Wednesday 19 December 2012
D+17 Weather
How fickle the weather has proved! Although I am grateful for our pleasant passage, it has been frustratingly slow. We have nights of flailing sails and banging blocks as they lift with the breeze before collapsing again onto the deck. The daily forecast shows that we are in a trade wind stream, but that doesn't seem to play out in reality. Eventually, a steady breeze built, enough to keep the spinnaker aloft. That, along with a flat swell, meant that we had an undisturbed night's sleep at last.
It is hugely hot today and we are desperate to arrive so we can all take a swim in the enticing waters. We were joined today by a pod of around 20 spotted dolphins and a single storm petrel, all well over 1000 miles from the nearest shore.
It is amazing to think that this area of Atlantic Ocean is the generator of the bad weather we experience at home in the UK. At 18N 40W we are sailing an area with weekly disturbances which deepen and move northeast before developing into proper low pressure systems, complete with strong winds and rain. Where we are, they just cause a loss of wind, a few more clouds, and are more of an inconvenience than anything. Another is predicted for Friday so we hope to clear south by then.
Before the start of the race, we had expected the fast boats who can make 200nm a day to be arriving in Barbados today. We had hoped to follow them five days' later on 150nm daily. Yesterday we fell short of that for the third day running as we managed a paltry 130nm but are moving better now. We need some solid days of 160nm+ to make up the lost time.
The children have been working on their fitness outside school hours, with Elizabeth able to traverse the boat without touching the floor, and inventing a "boat triathlon" and exercise class, complete with press-ups, dips, burpees and weights. They've also been preparing a selection of small home made gifts for Christmas day. I have made crackers to put them in, constructed from cereal packets and the Panerai tissue paper from the celebration box. Elizabeth collated some corny jokes and both children are decorating paper crowns to complete the contents.
It is hugely hot today and we are desperate to arrive so we can all take a swim in the enticing waters. We were joined today by a pod of around 20 spotted dolphins and a single storm petrel, all well over 1000 miles from the nearest shore.
It is amazing to think that this area of Atlantic Ocean is the generator of the bad weather we experience at home in the UK. At 18N 40W we are sailing an area with weekly disturbances which deepen and move northeast before developing into proper low pressure systems, complete with strong winds and rain. Where we are, they just cause a loss of wind, a few more clouds, and are more of an inconvenience than anything. Another is predicted for Friday so we hope to clear south by then.
Before the start of the race, we had expected the fast boats who can make 200nm a day to be arriving in Barbados today. We had hoped to follow them five days' later on 150nm daily. Yesterday we fell short of that for the third day running as we managed a paltry 130nm but are moving better now. We need some solid days of 160nm+ to make up the lost time.
The children have been working on their fitness outside school hours, with Elizabeth able to traverse the boat without touching the floor, and inventing a "boat triathlon" and exercise class, complete with press-ups, dips, burpees and weights. They've also been preparing a selection of small home made gifts for Christmas day. I have made crackers to put them in, constructed from cereal packets and the Panerai tissue paper from the celebration box. Elizabeth collated some corny jokes and both children are decorating paper crowns to complete the contents.
Tuesday 18 December 2012
D+16 Perishables
We are once more becalmed. This time, it was utterly not forecast on the grib files. Our arrival is now looking more like the 27th or even 28th. We even threw the kids overboard for a swim with instructions for them to push the boat along, but that didn't work. Actually, they did swim, but in life jackets and tethered to the boat by the redundant genoa sheet.
It is properly hot here now, and muggily overcast. The sea is as warm as the air and the bilges are steamy. The last of our perishable goods are perishing - we finished off the wrinkly apples last night baked with Christmas mincemeat and syrup, the onions are sprouting, the potatoes and oozing and the cheese is going green. Nevertheless, Dave and I are in battle against the galley to try to use the on board stores the most imaginatively. Dave filled every surface in the galley today with home made pizza bases - actually Dave on his own pretty much fills the galley. The pizzas were delicious. We're also working through the last of the frozen bread in anticipation of filling the freezer witha freshly caught tuna (in our dreams) so expect a flurry of bread recipes - it's apricot and dark chocolate bread and butter pudding tonight.
Every extra day at sea is one less day's partying in Barbados available to us. The organisation emailed yesterday to encourage us to arrive sooner as they have lots of rum waiting to be drunk. They also reminded us that Ollie had somewhat rashly succumbed to the guiles of a young French lady and had agreed to arrive in a dress and wig. He is frantically sewing a Gucci masterpiece ready for our welcome.
Please send more wind!
It is properly hot here now, and muggily overcast. The sea is as warm as the air and the bilges are steamy. The last of our perishable goods are perishing - we finished off the wrinkly apples last night baked with Christmas mincemeat and syrup, the onions are sprouting, the potatoes and oozing and the cheese is going green. Nevertheless, Dave and I are in battle against the galley to try to use the on board stores the most imaginatively. Dave filled every surface in the galley today with home made pizza bases - actually Dave on his own pretty much fills the galley. The pizzas were delicious. We're also working through the last of the frozen bread in anticipation of filling the freezer witha freshly caught tuna (in our dreams) so expect a flurry of bread recipes - it's apricot and dark chocolate bread and butter pudding tonight.
Every extra day at sea is one less day's partying in Barbados available to us. The organisation emailed yesterday to encourage us to arrive sooner as they have lots of rum waiting to be drunk. They also reminded us that Ollie had somewhat rashly succumbed to the guiles of a young French lady and had agreed to arrive in a dress and wig. He is frantically sewing a Gucci masterpiece ready for our welcome.
Please send more wind!
D+15 Water
Today has been a quiet day - quiet weather, quiet seas and relaxed crew. We have the spinnaker up again. This is proving a great bargain buy - James got it second hand off 'Guapa' from the east coast yachting forum and we've already used it ten times more that he ever did.
We also heard from one of the other BCYC boats who crossed ahead of us from Lanzarote following the ARC (James always says they leave too early):
"Had appalling weather, went south to catch trades 300 miles off Cape Verdes headed west, no trades so far but heavy blows from SW 6/7+ and nasty confused seas, followed by heavy prolonged rain! All very foul and not what we came for! Oilskins all the way! 'Swanilda' has held up well, few minor leaks and need some spares etc but otherwise all ok"
James and Ollie caught a black scabbard fish last night but it had been dragged along by the hook for some time and something larger had discovered it and been nibbling. They decided to throw it back, which Dave and I were mortified at. The crew of some of the race boats would have dined on that precious morsel of protein for a week!
Water is also precious and expensive, and the race boats left with only two 1 litre bottles of water for each man per day. At home, we squander litres of this resource. At sea, every drop of fresh water is precious. We are surrounded by water, but unlike The Ancient Mariner, we have a water maker (today...). We still use sea water to flush the toilet and to rinse the dishes, but even this is hand pumped. After our brush with water rationing, each fresh water rinse of salty hands or a foamy toothbrush is now to be savoured.
It is such a luxury to have full tanks again with no need to worry. Even if the water maker breaks again, we still have 40 litres per day to squander if we wish. Even so, we have to burn two litres of diesel to make 60 litres of water and that is our environmental cost. On land, water treatment works are similarly hungry, yet we pour sweet water down the toilets and watch it waste away down our sinks. Today, why not think of us and try to conserve a little of this precious resource at home?
We also heard from one of the other BCYC boats who crossed ahead of us from Lanzarote following the ARC (James always says they leave too early):
"Had appalling weather, went south to catch trades 300 miles off Cape Verdes headed west, no trades so far but heavy blows from SW 6/7+ and nasty confused seas, followed by heavy prolonged rain! All very foul and not what we came for! Oilskins all the way! 'Swanilda' has held up well, few minor leaks and need some spares etc but otherwise all ok"
James and Ollie caught a black scabbard fish last night but it had been dragged along by the hook for some time and something larger had discovered it and been nibbling. They decided to throw it back, which Dave and I were mortified at. The crew of some of the race boats would have dined on that precious morsel of protein for a week!
Water is also precious and expensive, and the race boats left with only two 1 litre bottles of water for each man per day. At home, we squander litres of this resource. At sea, every drop of fresh water is precious. We are surrounded by water, but unlike The Ancient Mariner, we have a water maker (today...). We still use sea water to flush the toilet and to rinse the dishes, but even this is hand pumped. After our brush with water rationing, each fresh water rinse of salty hands or a foamy toothbrush is now to be savoured.
It is such a luxury to have full tanks again with no need to worry. Even if the water maker breaks again, we still have 40 litres per day to squander if we wish. Even so, we have to burn two litres of diesel to make 60 litres of water and that is our environmental cost. On land, water treatment works are similarly hungry, yet we pour sweet water down the toilets and watch it waste away down our sinks. Today, why not think of us and try to conserve a little of this precious resource at home?
Monday 17 December 2012
D+15 Water
Today has been a quiet day - quiet weather, quiet seas and relaxed crew. We have the spinnaker up again. This is proving a great bargain buy - James got it second hand off 'Guapa' from the east coast yachting forum and we've already used it ten times more that he ever did.
We also heard from one of the other BCYC boats who crossed ahead of us from Lanzarote following the ARC (James always says they leave too early):
"Had appalling weather, went south to catch trades 300 miles off Cape Verdes headed west, no trades so far but heavy blows from SW 6/7+ and nasty confused seas, followed by heavy prolonged rain! All very foul and not what we came for! Oilskins all the way! 'Swanilda' has held up well, few minor leaks and need some spares etc but otherwise all ok"
James and Ollie caught a black scabbard fish last night but it had been dragged along by the hook for some time and something larger had discovered it and been nibbling. They decided to throw it back, which Dave and I were mortified at. The crew of some of the race boats would have dined on that precious morsel of protein for a week!
Water is also precious and expensive, and the race boats left with only two 1 litre bottles of water for each man per day. At home, we squander litres of this resource. At sea, every drop of fresh water is precious. We are surrounded by water, but unlike The Ancient Mariner, we have a water maker (today...). We still use sea water to flush the toilet and to rinse the dishes, but even this is hand pumped. After our brush with water rationing, each fresh water rinse of salty hands or a foamy toothbrush is now to be savoured.
It is such a luxury to have full tanks again with no need to worry. Even if the water maker breaks again, we still have 40 litres per day to squander if we wish. Even so, we have to burn two litres of diesel to make 60 litres of water and that is our environmental cost. On land, water treatment works are similarly hungry, yet we pour sweet water down the toilets and watch it waste away down our sinks. Today, why not think of us and try to conserve a little of this precious resource at home?
We also heard from one of the other BCYC boats who crossed ahead of us from Lanzarote following the ARC (James always says they leave too early):
"Had appalling weather, went south to catch trades 300 miles off Cape Verdes headed west, no trades so far but heavy blows from SW 6/7+ and nasty confused seas, followed by heavy prolonged rain! All very foul and not what we came for! Oilskins all the way! 'Swanilda' has held up well, few minor leaks and need some spares etc but otherwise all ok"
James and Ollie caught a black scabbard fish last night but it had been dragged along by the hook for some time and something larger had discovered it and been nibbling. They decided to throw it back, which Dave and I were mortified at. The crew of some of the race boats would have dined on that precious morsel of protein for a week!
Water is also precious and expensive, and the race boats left with only two 1 litre bottles of water for each man per day. At home, we squander litres of this resource. At sea, every drop of fresh water is precious. We are surrounded by water, but unlike The Ancient Mariner, we have a water maker (today...). We still use sea water to flush the toilet and to rinse the dishes, but even this is hand pumped. After our brush with water rationing, each fresh water rinse of salty hands or a foamy toothbrush is now to be savoured.
It is such a luxury to have full tanks again with no need to worry. Even if the water maker breaks again, we still have 40 litres per day to squander if we wish. Even so, we have to burn two litres of diesel to make 60 litres of water and that is our environmental cost. On land, water treatment works are similarly hungry, yet we pour sweet water down the toilets and watch it waste away down our sinks. Today, why not think of us and try to conserve a little of this precious resource at home?
Sunday 16 December 2012
D+14 Celebrations
We had lots to celebrate today, so we made time to enjoy the bottle of presecco that Panerai had provided.
Last night, after nine hours of fettling, James fixed the water maker. The method was very akin to those brave soldiers who executed The Great Escape - with nothing but a nail file, remove a tapered brass screw thread fitting from the inside of a pump head. Dave was instrumental in his success as James had gotten to the point where he was going to attack the offending part with a power drill, which would have written off the pump too. Once the broken piece was removed, James recoupled the desalinator minus one of the less vital compenents which we can replace in Barbados. We have water.
We're now pelting along on a broad reach - we made a slight course adjustment to try to avoid the worst of a large slack area forecast for tomorrow night - and so are on our best point of sail. It's also much more comfortable for sleeping. We've also had to change our clocks once more, so boat time is now GMT-2.
We may have been short on water, but we still have plenty of ice-cream. Today was Cinema Sunday and the dog house was once more blacked out for a showing of Raiders of the Lost Ark. You can't watch a movie without ice-cream and so home-made chocolate ice-cream was served with tinned strawberries.
We are attempting fishing again as the batteries are over charging and we had to retrieve the water generator. We'd better improve our fishing technique, as last night the boat caught three fish all by itself. We awoke to three large flying fish festering on the decks. We chose not to eat them as we'd had fisherman's pie last night and they were already starting to smell.
In the sweepstake for arrival time, we all reckon Dec 26th. James says 3pm, Ollie 5pm, Dave 6pm and I say 8pm. We'll see....
Last night, after nine hours of fettling, James fixed the water maker. The method was very akin to those brave soldiers who executed The Great Escape - with nothing but a nail file, remove a tapered brass screw thread fitting from the inside of a pump head. Dave was instrumental in his success as James had gotten to the point where he was going to attack the offending part with a power drill, which would have written off the pump too. Once the broken piece was removed, James recoupled the desalinator minus one of the less vital compenents which we can replace in Barbados. We have water.
We're now pelting along on a broad reach - we made a slight course adjustment to try to avoid the worst of a large slack area forecast for tomorrow night - and so are on our best point of sail. It's also much more comfortable for sleeping. We've also had to change our clocks once more, so boat time is now GMT-2.
We may have been short on water, but we still have plenty of ice-cream. Today was Cinema Sunday and the dog house was once more blacked out for a showing of Raiders of the Lost Ark. You can't watch a movie without ice-cream and so home-made chocolate ice-cream was served with tinned strawberries.
We are attempting fishing again as the batteries are over charging and we had to retrieve the water generator. We'd better improve our fishing technique, as last night the boat caught three fish all by itself. We awoke to three large flying fish festering on the decks. We chose not to eat them as we'd had fisherman's pie last night and they were already starting to smell.
In the sweepstake for arrival time, we all reckon Dec 26th. James says 3pm, Ollie 5pm, Dave 6pm and I say 8pm. We'll see....
Saturday 15 December 2012
D+13 Halfway
We were given a mystery box from Panerai on departure with instructions not to open until now. They had provided some supplies for a celebration - various Italian goodies - spaghettini, passata, olive oil, prosecco and bottle of vino rosso. The celebrations were short lived, however. James ran the engine to make water and the coupling to the high pressure outlet sheared off, leaving the thread jammed inside the pump head. We are now on water rations. We reckon we're twelve days out and have at least 260 litres in the tanks, so we've got about 3 litres per person per day. It does mean no more fresh showers or laundry though. All taps are out of bounds. We've also still got a few litres of fruit juice aboard and about 25 litres of milk, and then there's finally the two days' water rations in the emergency grab bag if we get truly desperate.
Today was also decoration day. We put the empty Panerai box to good use and made a nativity scene from it. We also made our own paper chains for the saloon and hung a large cardboard star from the skylights. Finally, the children coloured in holly leaves and stuck them to the mast. It looks quite festive now.
Friday 14 December 2012
D+12 Stars
The skies here are exceptionally clear with no light pollution and little cloud. Last night was a new moon, but the stars remained bright enough to illuminate the sea and puffs of cloud. It is the time of the Gemenids meteor shower and the show was spectacular. Elizabeth had never seen a shooting star before. A few days ago we saw one so intense it left a trail of sparks in its wake like a rocket as it burned up in our atmosphere. Just before dawn, James used the sextant to take two star sights. He only determined our position accurate to 18nm so has decided he needs more practice.
The ocean here is very deep. We are over the abyss and the water stretches out 5km below us. There are few nutrients in the waters here which leaves the ocean the deepest and purest indigo, punctuated only by flecks of white spume. The children enjoyed sitting on the gunwall this afternoon, dragging their legs in the warm seas each time the boat rolled in the swell. We watched three silver flying fish scoot over the waves. I was amazed to see them glide upwards over the waves as well as down the other side as I'd assumed they'd fly flatter.
Tomorrow we reach the half way point. Just prior to our departure from Cascais, all the boats received a special parcel from Panerai, not to be opened until the halfway mark. There has been much speculation as to what it contains...
The ocean here is very deep. We are over the abyss and the water stretches out 5km below us. There are few nutrients in the waters here which leaves the ocean the deepest and purest indigo, punctuated only by flecks of white spume. The children enjoyed sitting on the gunwall this afternoon, dragging their legs in the warm seas each time the boat rolled in the swell. We watched three silver flying fish scoot over the waves. I was amazed to see them glide upwards over the waves as well as down the other side as I'd assumed they'd fly flatter.
Tomorrow we reach the half way point. Just prior to our departure from Cascais, all the boats received a special parcel from Panerai, not to be opened until the halfway mark. There has been much speculation as to what it contains...
Thursday 13 December 2012
D+11 Tropics
23N 26W we have crossed the Tropic of Cancer and it is now officially tropical. The wind is at last behind us, the seas have quietened and we are blasting along under main with one reef and poled out genoa. I'm sure those in Europe don't want to hear about how pleasant and sunny the weather is here.
We had been pushing the boat quite hard and last night James was fretting about the bend on the mast due to reaching hard on full genoa and reefed main. In the night, conditions got wilder and we were soaked on deck tying in a further reef and rolling in the genoa so we were on main sail only. By morning, it was quieter and we had some genoa out but then James noticed that one of the internal bulkheads had come away from the deckbeam, and the deck was moving near the shrouds. We dropped the speed significantly for a few hours whilst James investigated, but all is fine. The bulkhead had probably moved due to being used as a grab handle by the crew and is now secure again, and James is sure the shrouds, chainplates and all internal structures are solid, so we're back up to 8kts again.
After their maths today, the children had a science lesson that seemed to mainly involve showering everyone with water in the cockpit. Ollie compared it to an episode of "Brainiac." I made scones for breakfast and attempted a quiche for lunch but the boat won - first lot got thrown violently into the bilge during a lurch and the second lot ended up lining the oven during another. Enough remained in the pan to feed the hungry crew, but I won't try that again. Now making home-made ice-cream for pudding.
Wildlife report - another pod of spotted dolphins off the bow just before dawn and we also watched a shearwater (like a small albatross) dynamic soaring the 4m waves yesterday.
Only two days until the half way point...
We had been pushing the boat quite hard and last night James was fretting about the bend on the mast due to reaching hard on full genoa and reefed main. In the night, conditions got wilder and we were soaked on deck tying in a further reef and rolling in the genoa so we were on main sail only. By morning, it was quieter and we had some genoa out but then James noticed that one of the internal bulkheads had come away from the deckbeam, and the deck was moving near the shrouds. We dropped the speed significantly for a few hours whilst James investigated, but all is fine. The bulkhead had probably moved due to being used as a grab handle by the crew and is now secure again, and James is sure the shrouds, chainplates and all internal structures are solid, so we're back up to 8kts again.
After their maths today, the children had a science lesson that seemed to mainly involve showering everyone with water in the cockpit. Ollie compared it to an episode of "Brainiac." I made scones for breakfast and attempted a quiche for lunch but the boat won - first lot got thrown violently into the bilge during a lurch and the second lot ended up lining the oven during another. Enough remained in the pan to feed the hungry crew, but I won't try that again. Now making home-made ice-cream for pudding.
Wildlife report - another pod of spotted dolphins off the bow just before dawn and we also watched a shearwater (like a small albatross) dynamic soaring the 4m waves yesterday.
Only two days until the half way point...
Wednesday 12 December 2012
D+10 Ocean Swell
The pace of life on board has changed as well. The crew can no longer leave to the haven of the foredeck and are spending more time in the cockpit. The children are displaced down below and have rediscovered the saloon table (despite the heaving of the boat). Everyone is in lifejackets and lifelines in case of a rogue wave and Croix des Gardes powers on throughout it all. We are grateful for her high freeboard and immense build as it is not an unpleasant ride. We should make good progress compared to the smaller boats if this weather holds and the mood is once more buoyant.
Cooking is more challenging, so today we had cup-a-soup and sandwiches for lunch, and will have a simple madras curry tonight. Working the galley is like cooking in a caravan - whilst it's being towed at high speed down a bumpy mountain pass. I am quite bruised today!
We eventually enticed the children into the cockpit in the afternoon (weather side, tied on etc). Elizabeth said she loved sailing and was daring the sea to soak her. It obliged. She said it was better than the best roller coaster she'd ever been on. I hope some of her excitement subsides before bedtime as it's quite exhausting. Matthew just carries on as normal, oblivious to everything.
At sunset we had a pod of spotted dolphins playing off the bow and overnight the Geminids began their annual display.
Tuesday 11 December 2012
D+9 Disappointment
Yesterday, the crew were buoyed up by a good day's run and by our overall result. The forecast was fair winds all the way, but we should never have believed it. Within hours, even the wind deserted us and so it remained for almost the whole day. We became more dispirited as we imagined Corto and our opponents charging away to the south and east of us. Finally, we have a breeze and are again moving southwest.
Dave took the opportunity to bake bread. It worked! He's now Head Pastry Chef and we're expecting fresh croissants tomorrow else he'll have to walk the plank. We also retrieved the water generator so we could lay the fishing line. There has been much debate as to what we'll do if we actually catch a fish - cowering in the doghouse whilst the monster thrashes itself to death in the cockpit seems the best idea so far, but others include unbolting the tiller to dispatch the fish with a sharp blow to the head.
Elizabeth has been training for a career in the vineyards of France - she discovered the joys of doing the laundry by stomping on it in a bucket of suds. However, we later lost a pair of pants and two socks to the deep during a chaotic wind shift. She also thanks Sue for her drawing book and wants to know why she missed a lot of the pages out. Elizabeth can now do the splits all three ways and can even balance across two shelves whilst doing the box splits (aka Jean-Claude Van Damme). Matthew thanks Tiernan for his message and is pleased that he liked the centipedes he drew on his Christmas tree, but he's having a "boring time on the boat."
As for Boxing Day, we're now planning it at sea. If our poor luck continues, we may need to catch that fish...
Dave took the opportunity to bake bread. It worked! He's now Head Pastry Chef and we're expecting fresh croissants tomorrow else he'll have to walk the plank. We also retrieved the water generator so we could lay the fishing line. There has been much debate as to what we'll do if we actually catch a fish - cowering in the doghouse whilst the monster thrashes itself to death in the cockpit seems the best idea so far, but others include unbolting the tiller to dispatch the fish with a sharp blow to the head.
Elizabeth has been training for a career in the vineyards of France - she discovered the joys of doing the laundry by stomping on it in a bucket of suds. However, we later lost a pair of pants and two socks to the deep during a chaotic wind shift. She also thanks Sue for her drawing book and wants to know why she missed a lot of the pages out. Elizabeth can now do the splits all three ways and can even balance across two shelves whilst doing the box splits (aka Jean-Claude Van Damme). Matthew thanks Tiernan for his message and is pleased that he liked the centipedes he drew on his Christmas tree, but he's having a "boring time on the boat."
As for Boxing Day, we're now planning it at sea. If our poor luck continues, we may need to catch that fish...
Monday 10 December 2012
D+8 Sailor's Craft
The open ocean beckons. We are now at 27N 19W heading generally WSW. The winds are steady and the only decision is do we gybe today or tomorrow? We are making good progress and the sweepstake is on as to our arrival date. If we maintain this pace, we'll be in Barbados on Boxing Day. We're taking a more direct northerly route at present because the winds give us best speed in this direction and the forecast is steady, but we may run hard south if the weather ahead begins to destabilise.
We've have the spinnaker up for 24hrs now, although the night was a bit hectic. Firstly, the wind veered as we neared the last island in the Canaries forcing us to gybe at midnight, then later the shackle that holds the brace to the spinnaker pole failed, releasing the kite - twice. Since then it's been smooth running.
We briefly saw the light of another competitor last night off to port but again did not pick anything up on the AIS. It is odd that, in a race where we are obliged by the rules to have our AIS on, each time since the start that we have encountered another of our compatriots, they have not been picked up on the AIS. At one point, we questioned if our own set was broken as we got very close to Artaius, and then spent several days in sight of Cepango but with no returns, and again saw nothing when Valteam overtook us last week. Then we were party to a cutting email exchange between some of the leading boats suggesting that there may be some selective use of AIS among the more racy crews.
After the children's morning of school work, James and Dave have been teaching them traditional mariner's crafts. They have been making monkey's fists, square knot rounds and solomon's braids. James even briefly sighted a 7m long black toothed whale and suggested we should catch it to use for scrimshaw.
Yesterday's entertainment was also nautical but less traditional - James set up his laptop DVD player in the doghouse hooked up to the boat's 12V supply, whilst I plugged the headphone jack into the boat's sound system and we had a matinee showing of "Pirates of the Caribbean" with Dolby Surround Sound.
Food supplies holding well - sausages and mash last night; cottage pie followed by rhubarb crumble tonight. Frozen bread also looks like it may also last the trip but Dave plans to make fresh bread anyway. Both the air and sea temperature are now around 24 degrees so just about warm enough to leaven a loaf.
We've have the spinnaker up for 24hrs now, although the night was a bit hectic. Firstly, the wind veered as we neared the last island in the Canaries forcing us to gybe at midnight, then later the shackle that holds the brace to the spinnaker pole failed, releasing the kite - twice. Since then it's been smooth running.
We briefly saw the light of another competitor last night off to port but again did not pick anything up on the AIS. It is odd that, in a race where we are obliged by the rules to have our AIS on, each time since the start that we have encountered another of our compatriots, they have not been picked up on the AIS. At one point, we questioned if our own set was broken as we got very close to Artaius, and then spent several days in sight of Cepango but with no returns, and again saw nothing when Valteam overtook us last week. Then we were party to a cutting email exchange between some of the leading boats suggesting that there may be some selective use of AIS among the more racy crews.
After the children's morning of school work, James and Dave have been teaching them traditional mariner's crafts. They have been making monkey's fists, square knot rounds and solomon's braids. James even briefly sighted a 7m long black toothed whale and suggested we should catch it to use for scrimshaw.
Yesterday's entertainment was also nautical but less traditional - James set up his laptop DVD player in the doghouse hooked up to the boat's 12V supply, whilst I plugged the headphone jack into the boat's sound system and we had a matinee showing of "Pirates of the Caribbean" with Dolby Surround Sound.
Food supplies holding well - sausages and mash last night; cottage pie followed by rhubarb crumble tonight. Frozen bread also looks like it may also last the trip but Dave plans to make fresh bread anyway. Both the air and sea temperature are now around 24 degrees so just about warm enough to leaven a loaf.
Sunday 9 December 2012
D+7 The Red Mist
It's taken 36hrs to traverse The Canaries, from the north of Lanzarote to the south of Tenerife. This is where "The Beagle" stopped en-route to the Galapagos. Charles Darwin had been suffering from terrible sea sickness and planned to return to Britain, but the islands were under quarantine and so the ship continued to Cape Verde and South America, and Darwin went on the form his theories on evolution.
The sun has quite some power to it today and we have opened the skylights aboard. It is almost warm enough for proving bread, but cheese scones will suffice once more for today.
We made a carefully considered strategic routing decisions around the islands and gained several places. When we saw the other boats' positions via the iPads, I'm sorry to report that a red racing mist descended across the eyes of our cruising boat. We pushed the spinnaker hard and ran fast in the hope to beat our compatriots out the archipelago to the south. By dusk, the boat was struggling under the load and James was feeling uncomfortable. None of us really wanted to revert to plain sail and lose speed, but sense prevailed. We only have one spinnaker and if we blow it we may find ourselves going nowhere in later light airs under the genoa. The spinnaker was retrieved and the genoa poled out for downwind running, and things instantly became more settled. By morning, the winds had dropped again and we were desperate for daylight to launch the spinnaker once more when we discovered a new tear. This was quickly mended and we are now flying once more on course for 20N 30W - the
half way point.
We also had a failure of the float switch on the automatic bilge pump. James dug it out of the bilge to discover it had tried to catch fire! All is now well and the faulty unit has been replaced. Any over heating had been contained within the sealed unit and this was also below the bilge water line so it would not have endangered the boat.
We're now expecting steady winds and are working out out ETA. If we get a great run, we could make it for Boxing Day, whereas another poor patch will mean we'll arrive New Year's Eve. Keep your fingers crossed.
Still very little wildlife to report, although Dave spotted a large dark fin break the surface west of Fuerteventura yesterday. We had sailed past a small school of basking sharks. They are completely harmless, feeding on plankton using massive gill rakers like the baleen whales, and cruising the surface at around 2kts. Until a few years ago, nobody knew much about this shark - the second largest fish in the sea and a declining annual visitor to UK waters as far north as Scotland. They were seriously overfished in the 1960s for their oil and numbers crashed and have yet to recover. They breed off the UK and their courtship behaviour is easily disturbed by careless eco-tourists who try to get too close in small boats. Only very recently have scientists attached GPS trackers to these animals to discover their wintering grounds so it's a valuable sighting for December.
places yesterday.
The sun has quite some power to it today and we have opened the skylights aboard. It is almost warm enough for proving bread, but cheese scones will suffice once more for today.
We made a carefully considered strategic routing decisions around the islands and gained several places. When we saw the other boats' positions via the iPads, I'm sorry to report that a red racing mist descended across the eyes of our cruising boat. We pushed the spinnaker hard and ran fast in the hope to beat our compatriots out the archipelago to the south. By dusk, the boat was struggling under the load and James was feeling uncomfortable. None of us really wanted to revert to plain sail and lose speed, but sense prevailed. We only have one spinnaker and if we blow it we may find ourselves going nowhere in later light airs under the genoa. The spinnaker was retrieved and the genoa poled out for downwind running, and things instantly became more settled. By morning, the winds had dropped again and we were desperate for daylight to launch the spinnaker once more when we discovered a new tear. This was quickly mended and we are now flying once more on course for 20N 30W - the
half way point.
We also had a failure of the float switch on the automatic bilge pump. James dug it out of the bilge to discover it had tried to catch fire! All is now well and the faulty unit has been replaced. Any over heating had been contained within the sealed unit and this was also below the bilge water line so it would not have endangered the boat.
We're now expecting steady winds and are working out out ETA. If we get a great run, we could make it for Boxing Day, whereas another poor patch will mean we'll arrive New Year's Eve. Keep your fingers crossed.
Still very little wildlife to report, although Dave spotted a large dark fin break the surface west of Fuerteventura yesterday. We had sailed past a small school of basking sharks. They are completely harmless, feeding on plankton using massive gill rakers like the baleen whales, and cruising the surface at around 2kts. Until a few years ago, nobody knew much about this shark - the second largest fish in the sea and a declining annual visitor to UK waters as far north as Scotland. They were seriously overfished in the 1960s for their oil and numbers crashed and have yet to recover. They breed off the UK and their courtship behaviour is easily disturbed by careless eco-tourists who try to get too close in small boats. Only very recently have scientists attached GPS trackers to these animals to discover their wintering grounds so it's a valuable sighting for December.
places yesterday.
Saturday 8 December 2012
D+6 Land Ahoy!
First sight of land at 4am - the lighthouse on the north edge of Lanzarote. After six days, we have reached the latitude that the previous Transat Classique started from in 2008. It's also the first day of rain, but at least it's warm rain.
Elizabeth asked "Why can't we stop there?" We had all wondered whether we'd feel remorse that the shore was passing so close and yet we wouldn't stop. In reality, the islands are more of a navigational problem to be solved so we can get on with heading back out into the ocean proper and those elusive trade winds.
The forecast NE'ly failed to materialise overnight but we had a good run and are finally wobbling fast downtrack under the spinnaker. Land has another effect on the crew - they have discovered they can get a mobile phone signal. The three men are now glued to their iPhones and sharing news and gossip, and getting bogged down in work and other irrelevant issues. Dave logged onto the live tracker website and we saw several other boats have gone the far side of Lanzarote. We're almost up to hull speed here on the shorter route, so we are so we're hopeful we'll gain a little on them.
We got the main sail fully repaired yesterday, finally sewing the new sliders on in situ when the wind was light. We hadn't quite finished when the breeze picked up and we needed to let the main out so James and I were perched out between the dog house roof and the boom over the guard rail sewing as fast as we could before Dave had to let the sail out too much for us to return aboard!
We saw another turtle yesterday, but still no birds, despite our proximity to land. We've also had our first run at baking aboard - cheese scones and soda bread. Dave is still building up for yeast doughs. Matthew is having a duvet-day as it's Saturday and Elizabeth is continuing to write her novel.
Elizabeth asked "Why can't we stop there?" We had all wondered whether we'd feel remorse that the shore was passing so close and yet we wouldn't stop. In reality, the islands are more of a navigational problem to be solved so we can get on with heading back out into the ocean proper and those elusive trade winds.
The forecast NE'ly failed to materialise overnight but we had a good run and are finally wobbling fast downtrack under the spinnaker. Land has another effect on the crew - they have discovered they can get a mobile phone signal. The three men are now glued to their iPhones and sharing news and gossip, and getting bogged down in work and other irrelevant issues. Dave logged onto the live tracker website and we saw several other boats have gone the far side of Lanzarote. We're almost up to hull speed here on the shorter route, so we are so we're hopeful we'll gain a little on them.
We got the main sail fully repaired yesterday, finally sewing the new sliders on in situ when the wind was light. We hadn't quite finished when the breeze picked up and we needed to let the main out so James and I were perched out between the dog house roof and the boom over the guard rail sewing as fast as we could before Dave had to let the sail out too much for us to return aboard!
We saw another turtle yesterday, but still no birds, despite our proximity to land. We've also had our first run at baking aboard - cheese scones and soda bread. Dave is still building up for yeast doughs. Matthew is having a duvet-day as it's Saturday and Elizabeth is continuing to write her novel.
Friday 7 December 2012
D+5 Tactics
Last night we picked up a steady SW'ly and have been running south hard on the wind waiting for it to veer us towards the Canaries. Despite being close hauled, we're going well as the sea is flatter than back home on the River Orwell. There is almost no swell at all now. However, the wind is not strong enough for us to achieve hull speed so the smaller boats will be increasing their lead. We hope to catch Cipango once conditions strengthen and we can use our greater waterline to more effect.
Ollie sewed a permanent patch into the spinnaker tear yesterday and we're waiting for an opportunity to down power the main so we can sew on the new sliders before we run downwind hard. Crew are much happier today now they've had some news from home and are grateful it's not snowing here. We fed them some good British food last night - steak and kidney pie followed by gooseberry crumble, although we may have an impending tea crisis. We've been using nearly 40 tea bags per day and need to cut back otherwise we'll be out of tea by the halfway point. That would be a disaster in the British camp!
We saw the bottle nosed dolphins again last night - I could see them jumping against the starlight and listened to their squeaks through the hull. Dolphins do not sleep as we do - only one side of their brain sleeps at a time so they can continue to swim and surface to breath. We also saw a turtle at the surface yesterday. Many Europeans are surprised that we have turtles over here. Although some breed on Mediterranean beaches, most prefer the Caribbean, but many make the transatlantic trip each year in search of jellyfish. North Atlantic waters are far richer in nutrients than tropical coral-filled waters and so hold more food for turtles. Many of the turtles stranded on British beaches each year are found starving with plastic bags and children's balloons choking their stomachs. Please think when you choose a plastic carrier bag and dispose of it thoughtfully, and discourage mass balloon releases as most of these end up in the seas.
Ollie sewed a permanent patch into the spinnaker tear yesterday and we're waiting for an opportunity to down power the main so we can sew on the new sliders before we run downwind hard. Crew are much happier today now they've had some news from home and are grateful it's not snowing here. We fed them some good British food last night - steak and kidney pie followed by gooseberry crumble, although we may have an impending tea crisis. We've been using nearly 40 tea bags per day and need to cut back otherwise we'll be out of tea by the halfway point. That would be a disaster in the British camp!
We saw the bottle nosed dolphins again last night - I could see them jumping against the starlight and listened to their squeaks through the hull. Dolphins do not sleep as we do - only one side of their brain sleeps at a time so they can continue to swim and surface to breath. We also saw a turtle at the surface yesterday. Many Europeans are surprised that we have turtles over here. Although some breed on Mediterranean beaches, most prefer the Caribbean, but many make the transatlantic trip each year in search of jellyfish. North Atlantic waters are far richer in nutrients than tropical coral-filled waters and so hold more food for turtles. Many of the turtles stranded on British beaches each year are found starving with plastic bags and children's balloons choking their stomachs. Please think when you choose a plastic carrier bag and dispose of it thoughtfully, and discourage mass balloon releases as most of these end up in the seas.
D+4 Frustration
Before we left Cascais, we knew we needed to be a good 100nm south of Madeira by today to avoid the anticyclonic lull. We thought that would be easy, even at 100nm a day. We were wrong. After a second fitful day, we got a decent breeze for a few hours last night and were running at hull speed, accelerating to over 9kts at times, but it didn't last. By the early hours, the wind had died completely, leaving the sails thumping noisiliy as we rocked in the swell. Nobody slept well except the children. We have now resigned ourselves to at least 48hrs of calm, although we're currently making 4kts hard on a feeble breeze from the south, but don't expect it to last.
We were again joined briefly by bottle-nosed dolphins this morning and we watched them surf the swell in basence of a bow-wave from us. The only other wildlife we've seen for a couple of days was a small ray at the surfact yesterday afternoon showing it's nose, fin tips and tail before submerging again with a splash.
The crew asked in all honesty if we did have enough food as they'd been eating rather well. I think they were anticipating ship's biscuits and weevils, not sweet and sour, pancakes and puddings. Although the rest of our perishabe food is perishing even faster, we've ample stores. The skipper has requested we eat the heavy tins first so we can reduce some weight and sit on our marks correctly, but then he goes and pums another 70lts of sea water back on board through the desalinator.
The children both say that they love sailing and now are used the their own routine - I get them up at 8am after my watch, then it's breakfast, teeth and into the doghouse for formal schooling. They then get a play break until James wakes up and carries on their tuition before lunch. The afternoons are spent doing more practical and esoteric learning before they again get a couple of hours play before supper and bed.
Thank you all for the comments, although Dave and Olllie are feeling rather unloved as none of the comments appear to be for them.
We were again joined briefly by bottle-nosed dolphins this morning and we watched them surf the swell in basence of a bow-wave from us. The only other wildlife we've seen for a couple of days was a small ray at the surfact yesterday afternoon showing it's nose, fin tips and tail before submerging again with a splash.
The crew asked in all honesty if we did have enough food as they'd been eating rather well. I think they were anticipating ship's biscuits and weevils, not sweet and sour, pancakes and puddings. Although the rest of our perishabe food is perishing even faster, we've ample stores. The skipper has requested we eat the heavy tins first so we can reduce some weight and sit on our marks correctly, but then he goes and pums another 70lts of sea water back on board through the desalinator.
The children both say that they love sailing and now are used the their own routine - I get them up at 8am after my watch, then it's breakfast, teeth and into the doghouse for formal schooling. They then get a play break until James wakes up and carries on their tuition before lunch. The afternoons are spent doing more practical and esoteric learning before they again get a couple of hours play before supper and bed.
Thank you all for the comments, although Dave and Olllie are feeling rather unloved as none of the comments appear to be for them.
Wednesday 5 December 2012
D+3 Calm
The weather gods are not favouring us. We are now abeam Madeira and trying to run south to escape the encroaching anticyclone. Unfortunately for us, we have not been quite quick enough and the novelty of yesterday's slack winds and smooth seas has now worn off. The faster boats appear to have managed to run ahead of the calm and should have a lovely passage down to the trade winds, but it looks like we'll now have to sit it out and won't make the Canaries until well into the weekend.
We're now calculating how long the passage will take us if we continue to drift along at 2kts, and which month the food will run out in - February or March. James has enough diesel on board to supply us with water for 150 days so if we're not in by April we'd better start on rations. We're also speculating if we'll arrive in Barbados before Kate, Duchess of Cambridge, has her recently announced child.
Talking of food, our perishable produce is not surviving as well as we'd hoped. We're frantically trying to use up carrots and soft cheeses before they ooze away, and simply had to have American pancakes for breakfast to help with the eggs. We're also not topping up the batteries as well as James hoped as we're just not travelling through the water fast enough to generate current.
During a brief spell of breeze, we managed a run at 7kts and were joined by a pod of bottle-nosed dolphins. Other than that, there's not much to do on watch and we have not seen another vessel all day. The children tried to go fishing with their rock-pool nets today but were always unlikely to catch anything in 4000m of water.
We're now calculating how long the passage will take us if we continue to drift along at 2kts, and which month the food will run out in - February or March. James has enough diesel on board to supply us with water for 150 days so if we're not in by April we'd better start on rations. We're also speculating if we'll arrive in Barbados before Kate, Duchess of Cambridge, has her recently announced child.
Talking of food, our perishable produce is not surviving as well as we'd hoped. We're frantically trying to use up carrots and soft cheeses before they ooze away, and simply had to have American pancakes for breakfast to help with the eggs. We're also not topping up the batteries as well as James hoped as we're just not travelling through the water fast enough to generate current.
During a brief spell of breeze, we managed a run at 7kts and were joined by a pod of bottle-nosed dolphins. Other than that, there's not much to do on watch and we have not seen another vessel all day. The children tried to go fishing with their rock-pool nets today but were always unlikely to catch anything in 4000m of water.
Tuesday 4 December 2012
D+2 Laundry
Hygiene at sea is paramount - poor hygiene can lead to food poisoning which can sweep through the entire crew causing incapacitation and dehydration. Fortunately, we can be generous with our water with desalination aboard, but still prefer to use a salt tap for rinsing when possible.
We ran the water maker for the first time today. It runs off the engine, turning salt water into fresh but has the added advantage that the engine heats a tank of hot water up for us and tops up the battery charge. Whilst this was happening, the crew enjoyed the luxury of a hot shower each off the back of the boat and we did our laundry. As the weather was so slight, the crew decided on a celebratory beer over a lunch of cured ham, artisan cheese and the last of the fresh bread supplies.
Monday 3 December 2012
D+1 Isolation
It's quite isolated now being at sea. We spot other vessels occasionally - we are on the heels of one of our fleet with a red spinnaker, whilst we still see a few ships running north up the Portuguese coast - but we have no idea what is going on in the outside world. Yesterday was a constant hustle of press attention and we wonder how much of that coverage made it onto your screens and your journals but have no way of telling.
Even the wildlife is sparser. We saw no dolphins today and only a fulmar and a couple of gannets. We did have a brief visitor on board - a rather lost and exhausted wood warbler landed on the main sheet for a brief rest before continuing its migration.
The seas smoothed and we have hoisted the spinnaker. Ollie is enjoying teasing the most out of it whilst the rest of us are content just to see it filled and stable. The latest weather favours staying east of the mark and we now plan to run to the east end of the Canaries and then southwest directly into the trades. We will review this tonight when the latest forecasts arrive from the race control. Yesterday's positions confirmed our thoughts that Mat has stormed away in The Blue Peter. She is an amazing boat with such attention to every last detail and a pleasure to lie next to at the marina in Cascais. We hope she goes on to win.
We are making the most of the cooler conditions to eat our soup supplies, and plan on a supper of pork in white wine saue followed by chocolate steamed pudding. Julie - I'm afraid Dave won't be losing any weight on this trip and Ollie may be filling out. The children have returned to their school work and both are now settled and back to their normal selves, swinging wildly between being best friends together before bickering and the immortal phrase "I'm telling...!"
Even the wildlife is sparser. We saw no dolphins today and only a fulmar and a couple of gannets. We did have a brief visitor on board - a rather lost and exhausted wood warbler landed on the main sheet for a brief rest before continuing its migration.
The seas smoothed and we have hoisted the spinnaker. Ollie is enjoying teasing the most out of it whilst the rest of us are content just to see it filled and stable. The latest weather favours staying east of the mark and we now plan to run to the east end of the Canaries and then southwest directly into the trades. We will review this tonight when the latest forecasts arrive from the race control. Yesterday's positions confirmed our thoughts that Mat has stormed away in The Blue Peter. She is an amazing boat with such attention to every last detail and a pleasure to lie next to at the marina in Cascais. We hope she goes on to win.
We are making the most of the cooler conditions to eat our soup supplies, and plan on a supper of pork in white wine saue followed by chocolate steamed pudding. Julie - I'm afraid Dave won't be losing any weight on this trip and Ollie may be filling out. The children have returned to their school work and both are now settled and back to their normal selves, swinging wildly between being best friends together before bickering and the immortal phrase "I'm telling...!"
D+1 First Night at Sea
The crew of Croix des Gardes are settling into their life afloat. The wind has finally turned to our tail and we are running downwind at 5kts towards our mandatory turn off the Canaries. The last yacht is disappearing from sight on the southern horizon and we are alone in the ocean.
We dropped back in the race overnight, but we were always here as participants, not combatants, and have already ceded 10hrs on the other boats as we did not do a feeder race. We poled out the genoa and put a restrainer on the boom so giving us a smoother and quieter ride. We're also towing a water generator and that takes another half knot off the speed.
Soon after yesterday's start, the winds became fickle and the swell rose causing the main to flog until several sliders broke. Now the main is rather classically lashed to the boom and drawing well.
Elizabeth had a distresed hour yesterday feeling queasy, but a pod of common dolphins playing off the bow lifted our spirits and she devoured her supper. We intend to cross in style and had a chorizo, tomato and capsicum stew with new potatoes and salad.
Sleeping is proving a challenge with the constant rolling ten to fifteen degrees each way. James says it takes a few days to adjust, but it means we all got to watch Venus rising as a shooting star pierced the inky night.
We dropped back in the race overnight, but we were always here as participants, not combatants, and have already ceded 10hrs on the other boats as we did not do a feeder race. We poled out the genoa and put a restrainer on the boom so giving us a smoother and quieter ride. We're also towing a water generator and that takes another half knot off the speed.
Soon after yesterday's start, the winds became fickle and the swell rose causing the main to flog until several sliders broke. Now the main is rather classically lashed to the boom and drawing well.
Elizabeth had a distresed hour yesterday feeling queasy, but a pod of common dolphins playing off the bow lifted our spirits and she devoured her supper. We intend to cross in style and had a chorizo, tomato and capsicum stew with new potatoes and salad.
Sleeping is proving a challenge with the constant rolling ten to fifteen degrees each way. James says it takes a few days to adjust, but it means we all got to watch Venus rising as a shooting star pierced the inky night.
Sunday 2 December 2012
Dolphins!
And we're off!
We're now one hour into the race. The winds proved light and variable at the start. We wanted to head up for the line but got squeezed so ended up doing our classic Croix des Gardes tactic of actually starting a few minutes after the line opened.
The turn out was spectacular with everyone on the water to see us off. Even the J-class Endeavour was there.
We had a parade start along the coast and did rather well in the light airs, actually making on some of the larger and faster boats. James proved master tactician at the first mark, and took the wind off three boats in extremely close quarters - Valteam, Gimcrack and Artaius. We took the mark first and are now heading out into the ocean hard on the wind.
We're currently making 4kts with 690nm to run to the Canaries. The faster boats have once more overhauled us but we're about to settle down for some lunch. The children are content, both playing tic-tac-toe and hangman in the doghouse and enjoying the fine conditions. We just hope for a following wind sometime soon...
The turn out was spectacular with everyone on the water to see us off. Even the J-class Endeavour was there.
We had a parade start along the coast and did rather well in the light airs, actually making on some of the larger and faster boats. James proved master tactician at the first mark, and took the wind off three boats in extremely close quarters - Valteam, Gimcrack and Artaius. We took the mark first and are now heading out into the ocean hard on the wind.
We're currently making 4kts with 690nm to run to the Canaries. The faster boats have once more overhauled us but we're about to settle down for some lunch. The children are content, both playing tic-tac-toe and hangman in the doghouse and enjoying the fine conditions. We just hope for a following wind sometime soon...
Saturday 1 December 2012
Barbados Awaits
Soon we slip our lines and head west. Our destination is Barbados, 13N 59W, some 3300nm away. Although we are at sea, we have established the sat phone comms and will download all your blog comments each evening. We'll endeavour to give you an update at least every other day and are greatly encouraged by your messages, so do please keep those comments coming in. It's such a boost for morale to know that you at home are thinking of us.
With the current forecast models, GFS shows that a frontal system lying SSW to NNE across the Atlantic continues to generate low pressure systems whilst the true trade winds are established firmly to the south of the route. Several of the boats are racing seriously with stripped out interiors and minimal supplies on board - it will be interesting to watch their tactics. We, on the other hand, are content to take an easier route and will probably head south quite rapidly before turning west for the Caribbean. You can follow us live on the tracker day or night.
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| Barbados Awaits |
Last Day Ashore
D-1
The day dawned bright and still breezy. Breakfast was delivered with another inspirational quote and taken in the sunshine in the cockpit.
We had a slow start - last night we attended the Officine Panerai Crew Dinner at the very exclusive Hotel Grande Villa Italia. The children continue to be the centre of attention and their behaviour was impeccable, despite the very late finish after midnight.
Today was "boat show" and press day, so I fielded questions and ensured the children were admired for their good looks and stoicism for the forthcoming adventure. The lads finished the very last chores and Croix des Gardes is ready for the ocean. The children were especially impressed at being the centre of a French news story, with Elizabeth demonstrating the lifelines. Footage will be shown "in nearly 200 countries" we were told.
The Panerai official photographer pored over our boat and children. Panerai also delivered a large mystery parcel with treats for us to open and enjoy at the half way point.
So now we relax. The crew have gone into town to watch the rugby, the children and playing in the park and we can prepare for tonight's exclusive supper. This time it is owners only and the CEO of Panerai will be in attendance. The Committee Boat is in position at anchor to mark our start - a glorious 80m four masted classic schooner. Tomorrow's forecast is for blue skies and fair winds. In less than 24 hrs we will be off.
The day dawned bright and still breezy. Breakfast was delivered with another inspirational quote and taken in the sunshine in the cockpit.
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| Breakfast by Panerai at D-1 |
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| Matthew waits for his supper |
Today was "boat show" and press day, so I fielded questions and ensured the children were admired for their good looks and stoicism for the forthcoming adventure. The lads finished the very last chores and Croix des Gardes is ready for the ocean. The children were especially impressed at being the centre of a French news story, with Elizabeth demonstrating the lifelines. Footage will be shown "in nearly 200 countries" we were told.
So now we relax. The crew have gone into town to watch the rugby, the children and playing in the park and we can prepare for tonight's exclusive supper. This time it is owners only and the CEO of Panerai will be in attendance. The Committee Boat is in position at anchor to mark our start - a glorious 80m four masted classic schooner. Tomorrow's forecast is for blue skies and fair winds. In less than 24 hrs we will be off.
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| The start line awaits us |
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