Short AV of our Transat Classique 2012

Next one scheduled for January 2015 leaving Gibraltar - I wonder if we'll be there?

Croix des Gardes back at the Royal Harwich Yacht Club

The Happy Return

After Cowes, James had reached Eastbourne before the fine weather and the run of easterlies curtailed further progress. He hired a car and took the children home for the first time in nine months. A week later, the whole family (kids, wife, new au pair and cats) returned to Croix des Gardes to complete the trip and return home to East coast waters for the first time since 2011.

We planned an early start to run the flood to Dover and locked out at dead low. Sovereign Marina has been recently dredged to 2m and we should have had 50cm over astronomical low leaving a healthy four inch margin of water under the keel. In the lock, all was well and we allowed the visiting Dutch flotilla to leave first so we'd have more space to manoeuvre. Just as well - we left the lock and James commented that we actually had 1.5m under the keel and then instantly hit the bottom. We were no more than a boat length outside the lock gates and now stuck fast, blocking the lock. Fortunately, Sovereign have a second lock and were very apologetic as to the lack of charted depth. They sent out their work boat on the next lock and he nudged us off and we were under way.

Aground just out the lock!

It was lovely to be back on board after three months. The conditions were extremely light and we had a 'Caribbean' sail on smooth seas, warm air and turquoise water. E persuaded us that she didn't want to be on board any longer than necessary so we replanned to anchor in Ramsgate Roades for a few hours to wait for the tide and then continue soon after midnight on the ebb across the Thames Estuary. I have to say that sipping English Harbour rum in the cockpit off Ramsgate breakwater wasn't quite as I remembered from the Antilles!

The turquoise water of the English Channel

The wind continued to drop and we motored and sailed out past North Foreland and into Black Deep. James took us through Foulger's despite new difficulties of picking the lit buoys among the city of new wind turbines, each showing a white at their base and a red at their masthead. By dawn, we were within sight of Felixstowe and home. I took us up the familiar Medusa Channel to Harwich shelf and we were back in the Orwell. The smooth waters, deep channel and gentle folds of the East Anglian landscape were even more beautiful after our absence and we reminisced over our voyage.

We even got the spinnaker up - and broached before we got it down again

By 10am we were alongside at our home club of the Royal Harwich Yacht Club to see their fine new clubhouse. The kids played on the lawn and we tidied the decks ready for a weekend of celebration to mark the end of this voyage.

New crew on deck

Cats, Cowes and Clogging!

After a fine passage up from Plymouth , via Dartmouth and Studland Bay, we stopped at Swanwick for a couple fo nights and picked up some fuel on Saturday before moving over to Cowes for the Panerai British Classic Yacht Club regatta.  The new crew, Napoleon and Ensign seem to be settling in.

 

It was fantastic to see everyone again along with a great welcome from the club committee and membership.  We where presented with a new club birgee, as the old one was on its last legs.  The new one is defacted with an "A" at the fly distinguishing us as an Atlantic member.  Another club boat, Swanilda received the same, in recognition of her Atlantic circuit in the same year.

We were also presented with a very nice pottery fruit bowl in pale blue and white, for the "Greatest Distance Travelled".  Many thanks to the club for their support.  It has been fantastic to depart the 2012 regatta, and return to the 2013 one having spent the entire time in comission and cruising.

With all those miles behind us we are now stuck in Cowes with the high pressure fuel injection pump off and awayin Southampton, thanks to water in the fuel.  Not what you expect once you are back home!  Thanks to the company doing the testing, we are here going on a week after they got the pump, despite promising a "48 hour turn around".  Unimpressed.

 

Some seatime photographs

Crew Changes

We have settled down in Plymouth and the transatlantic crew have departed, back to their families and boyfriends, but we have two new crew that have joined us; Madamoiselle Ensign and General Napoleon.  Two 3 month old kittens, one  black tortoise shell (Mlle E) and one black (M. N).

Full of playful kitteness, E thinks they are better than television!

Cornelius and his family have made us wonderfully welcome in Plymouth, but time constraints mean w are off to Dartmouth in the morning for a couple of day and then the run up to Cowes.

Back in Old Blighty

Well, we finally arrived in Plymouth to the welcome of Cornelius' family who came out at 0100 to stand on a headland and watch us in.  Official arrival time of 00:41 on 28 June.  18 days 7 hours and 41minutes.

All tired and now looking forward to a few relaxing days in Plymouth before heading for Cowes and the BCYC regatta.

More to follow once we have sorted the boat out, cleaned up, showered etc.

Tonight or tomorrow?

AIS website shows Croix des Gardes' last positoin before they drifted beyond the range of the base stations at 1951 BST.

This puts them with about 30nm to go but only doing 4.5kts.  It's going to be a late night for the team.

SMS from 881631669242@msg.iridium.com

1500 position 53 from Plymouth entrance.

SMS from 881631669242@msg.iridium.com

Noon position 49 49n 5 46w. Just off Lands End. spinnaker up first this passage.

Anticipated Return

For those of you eagerly awaiting news on Croix des Gardes and her crew as she approaches the UK today, the AIS Marine Traffic website has not yet spotted her our side of The Pond. We worked out that we had to be within 5nm of a base station to be 'seen'. There are stations on the Scillies and at The Lizard. James should pass close enough to the former to be picked up sometime early this morning - the latest positions and speeds suggest between 7am and 9am - and they should then be tracked pretty much all the way in.

AIS also shows the steady stream of ships making their way up and down the Channel as well as a small hadnful of other yachts approaching from the Atlantic so she should be in good company.

http://www.marinetraffic.com/ais/

SMS from 881631669242@msg.iridium.com

1800 position 49 32n 7 55w

SMS from 881631669242@msg.iridium.com

Noon position 49 26n 08 35w. light north wind four over the ground.

Approaching the lights of the Scillies and Cornwall

Position 1900 Day 16

Position 1900 49 15n 11 02w

From this position, CdG is making 6kts again with winds forecast on the beam until they arrive. They are now over the continental shelf and should pass their first 'land' overnight Wednesday as they sail south of Bishop Rock Lighthouse. They reach Land's End and The Lizard shortly after that and should be inshore all the way to an arrival in Plymouth on Thursday evening.

SMS from 881631669242@msg.iridium.com

noon position 49 11n 12 11w. NNW 4 and almost sunny!

SMS from 881631669242@msg.iridium.com

noon day 25, 49 11n 12 11w. now in light north winds doing 5 6 knots towards Bishops Rock. sent direct from phone. :)

Evening Update

Just spoke with the crew of Croix des Gardes. They have just passed 49.02N 14.57W which led to much celebration as they are now officially within the shipping forecast! James plans to arrive at Mayflower marina in Plymouth and will get them to arrange the customs clearance. If anyone is around that area, theyd appreciate visitors.

Cornelius is still feeling less than optimum but is coping, whilst Lidia seems to be OK but James is concerned that she barely seems to eat anything.

The children have been making dens in their cabin - the foc'sle - despite the fact that it must be pitching wildly. Elizabeth says I'd like the sailing right now as it's smooth and they're going really fast. Matthew had little to say, as usual, but thanked me for buying him a movie he'd asked for and wanting more details about the newly restyled loft complete with TV and DVD player. Neither of them were frightened in the storm but said it was a bit wild and tiring.

James is off to make supper now. They've had pizza a couple of times but Elizabeth says it's been mainly curry and she's fed up of curry now. Next update tomorrow and comments passed on to crew verbally. Sweepstake stands so long as everyone pays in!

Day 15 - seas smoother

Noon position 48.55N 15.51W and "all well. Wind west by northwest force 4" although at 6am the report was "still rough". This position means that by now they have finally left the Met Office "High Seas" area and are now within the realms of that familiar monologue, the "shipping forecast". If anyone finds themselves unable to sleep at 5.20am BST or 00.48am with Radio 4 tuned, then listen out for area "Sole" (comes after Biscay, Trafalgar, Fitzroy). Alternatively, you can click this Met Office link.

They have 460nm to run and made only 4.7kts average last night but picked up again to 6.4kts this morning. ETA now 5pm Thursday with pleasant forecasts as high pressure builds over the UK from the Azores.

Latest Position Day 14

James phoned in at 3pm BST - all well. Position at 7am was 48.21N 20.30W. This puts them significantly slower over night (back at 4.7kts) and with 650nm to Plymouth. Tomorrow afternoon they should cross 15W which puts them back inside the UK Shipping Forecast areas and officially off the "High Seas" so I'm very excited to be able to send them a more familiar forecast then.

Forecast is W'ly 20kts tomorrow (Mon), N'ly 10kts Tuesday, NE'ly 10kt Wednesday, N'ly 10kts Thursday and NW'ly 15kts Friday. Still looking like a Thursday or Friday arrival.

Position Day 13

Text from CdG:

Position 47.50N 23.24W

No other news on how crew or boat are faring but forecast is for conditions to moderate rapidly through today and into next week.

Update at 1330:
James amanaged to ring on SatPhone. He hasn't been receiving any texts either so a verbal weather forecast was passed. He explained that the damage at the stern had happened during a double crash gybe. Croix des Gardes was picked up by a big wave and went surfing off down the front. Cornelius saw a speed of 24kts on the GPS as it happened. As she went, the preventer snapped and the main gybe over and back again and they think the sheet got caught round the stern and that took off the stern light and satphone aerial. The event only lasted a few seconds and they dropped the main straight afterwards.

Other than that, the sail is no longer chafing and all are looking forward to a bit less wind. They said it only really started to blow hard when the NW'ly came through and they're still in 20kts NW'ly with a forecast for it to back and decrease soon. The children are all fine and Elizabeth was reportedly in James' bunk eating porridge. Only one bunk is properly wet!

Lost Comms

Message from Croix des Gardes - they have lost the marine pack aerial for the satellite phone and also the USB interface through wave action and salt wate ingress but at the moment the text message function still works. As such they shall no longer be able to update you all here nor read any comments until they make landfall - however do keep them coming as they'll be able to catch up next week.

I shall continue to send them what weather info I can and shall post here each time I hear from them. Their last position had them 870nm to run and sitting out the last of the storm.

Sarah

Day 12, another gale

SW gales given over to NW gales and 6-8 m seas. All crew unimpressed and waiting for the "moderating".

Two crash gybes in heavy seas have taken out the stern light and the external satphone aerial. Now running under staysail only and doing 5-7 knots. Another uncomfortable night ahead.

Position at 2000
47 39N 24 49W

--

Noon, Day 12

Position
47 31 N 26 02W

All feeling a bit jaded after last nights blow. Lots of rolling, lots of water over the decks, still putting the gunnels under on the bigger rolls. Seas runing at about 6m. Wind 6-7, but teh sky is clearing and the centre of the low might be past.

--

Dawn, Day 12

A bit of a wild night, but running with triple reefed main and some of the genny poled out. Averaging between 7 and 8 knots. Reasonably sized sea at about 4m and lots of breaking crest. Plenty of water over the decks and in the cockpit. More to come I suspect.

Position at 05 40 local
46 30N 27 10W

CdG took a course change south overnight to avoid the worst of the storm - averaging 7.6kts with 940nm to run

Evening, Day 1

Clocks changed and wind building up, so an early even update.

Position at 17:05 local (GMT -1)
47 11N 29 31W

Wind F6, SSW Seas about 3-4 m

Good speed and comfortable with 2 reefs and a heavily rolled genoa.

--

Noon, Day 11

Another 149 miles yesterday and time for another time zone change. Swinging along quite nicely in 2025 knots and preparing for an increase tonight.

All well rested and comfortable for now!

Position
47 02N 30 14W

--

Dawn, Day 11

Well a late dawn by now, I saw the sky lighten at 4 before crawling back to my bunk,

Thanks to all for the sweep stake responses so far, but please note, this is a scientific process, and we need precise times to determine a winner. The judges shall decide who is closest to the precise time at which we pass the end of Plymouth breakwater. The judges decision is final etc etc.

Position at 10:00
46 56N 30 33W

Which means we will change clocks today as we pass the 30th meridian. No jet lag for us!

We have now been running goose winged for the last three days, steadily between 5 and 8 knots. Sarah called me last night to say that the Met Office had just issue a gale warning for our area. This was somewhat unexpected for us, as local conditions did not suggest anything of the sort and the forecasts had the only gales a good distance off. We were planning to have a bottle of wine with dinner to celebrate passing the halfway point, so we put that on hold. No gale has eventuated yet, so perhaps putting off drinking wine might give us control over the weather!

UK Met Office storm warning for 20 Jun 13

Evening Position

46 35N 32 48W at 1800.

Quieter day, not so rolly. Even did some washing, although getting it dry is proving a bit of a challenge.

--

Noon, Day 10

Position
46 27N 33 47W

We are past the half way mark, so optimistically Richard suggested that we have a sweep stake on our arrival time in Plymouth. Open to family and friends, £1 each winner takes all.

Thursday 27th seems to be the popular choice on board.

--

Sunrise, Day 10

Position
46 15N 35 00W

Wet, slightly less windy and rough.

Almost halfway now with brisk following winds

Noon, Day 9

Position
45 48N 37 21W

The next cold wet low is upon us with SW 20 knots and fog. The "Atlantic heartbeat" according to Cornelius!

The children are watching Dr Who, I am waiting for a chance to do washing, and more so the chance to dry it. Perhaps a washing line in the engine bay is the only chance!

With 1256 miles to go to Bishop's Rock we are very close to the halfway point, and should get there before midnight.

--

Midnight Runner

Position at 0130
45 33N 39 01W

Now hard on the wind since dinner time, but fortunately there is not too much of it just yet, still less than 10 knots, but giving us enough to push along at a very brisk 6-7. Smooth enough at the moment for E and M to remain in there cabin, and forecast to veer later. We had some very light winds this afternoon so it is good to be on the move again.

We are now just about working our way around the top of the Azores high and we hope that it will be warm (we did finally get to have cockpit showers today), light winds (which we have) and winds behind us (which we don't) but two out of three etc. :)



--

Noon, Day 7

Position!
45 06N 40 41W

A slow slow morning. Wind about 5 knots from the west and we are trickling along in the left over swell. 24 hour run of only 117 miles. Hmmm.



--

New Species Found in NE Atlantic

From this week's Guardian:

Rare frilled shark caught near Rockall.

"Fishing is expected to be banned near the Atlantic islet of Rockall after a rare methane gas vent in the seabed and two new shellfish species were discovered by British scientists.

The methane, which leaks through a so-called "cold seep" vent in the ocean floor, was found last year by scientists working with the government agency Marine Scotland. It is the first of its kind to be found near UK waters and only the third in the north-east Atlantic."

Read the full article here.


Croix des Gardes is currently headed for Bishop's Rock Lighthouse rather than Rockall, but we still know so little about our own amazing and productive seas. Here we have at least two species new to science right on our own doorstep.

Dawn, Day 8

The wind has gone but the swell hasn't. Very slow at the moment and light and variable for cast on this patch for the next few days.

Not much sleep last night for anyone due to the rolling. I was accompanied by E on watch who talked 20 to the dozen for the whole watch, despite the gale, the rolling and the cockpit filling with water several times!

I forgot to mention that the night before we had a visitor in the doghouse. A small black seabird dropped in and sat on the floor for a while before nestling down in a bunk for a couple of hours. He then perked up and flapped about. I put him on a cockpit seat, where he sat for a few seconds before flying off into the night.

Wave height forecast showing 4m waves for Croix des Gardes presently

Midday Day 7

The wind has come up again, about 30 knots from the SSW. Lumpy seas which don't seem to have affected anyone much at the moment. E and M wanted eggs, bacon and baked beans for lunch, but the conditions prohibited the cooking rather than the eating!

The mainsail continues to be less than ideal. The head board has already chaffed through my repairs of yesterday. ON closer inspection the slide is so badly formed that I can't completely eliminate chafe. The other cringes in the headboard also have sharp edges from the pressing process which haven't been finished properly. The head board itself is punched aluminium plate whioh again has not had the edges smoothed off. Not best pleased with it at the moment.

Position at 1440:
44 28N 42 57W

--

Day 7 and a time zone change

We passed the 45th meridian about midnight, so a new time zone and only 3 hours of UK time.

We had a quirky position at 0735, of 44 02N 44 02W. Small things amuse you when you spend hours alone on watch!

Making excellent progress in a good southerly and no fog at the moment. With some luck we might even get to see the sun again!

Position at 0800 local
44 05N 43 58W

--

Day 6, Afternoon

The fog remains, and the wind pushes us on at 7 knots. Fast and smooth, but with no visibility. Not much else to report. If we can keep this up for the next 24 hours we might out run the really windy front coming up behind.

Position
43 33N 46 00W at 1700



--

Fog

I had hoped we might have cleared the foggy bit off Newfoundland by now. The sun from yesterday afternoon had us all thinking of showers and warmth and lunch in the cockpit and on deck. But maybe not today. Visibility is about a mile, we are doing 6-7 knots dead on course and seas are smooth so it not too bad.

Elizabeth and Lidia did their first watch together last night from 7-10. Both seemed quite excited by it. For that matter so were the rest of the crew it means we might finally settle into a 3 hours on, 9 hours off routine which makes life much more comfortable. However it might need a little tweaking. By the time is was dark, the wind had veered and E and L didn't know what to do with sail trim, and then L began to feel queasy. E was most disappointed when I came up on deck early and told me to go back to bed!

Position at 0730

43 15N 47 26W
--

Noon Day Position

Weather looking brighter, wind moderated a bit, seas beginning to calm down but still lots of surfing and rolling.

Noon to noon, 159 miles which is good.

Position 42 27N 49 20W

Might even have to change the clocks soon!

--

On course to Bishop's Rock!

We have now cleared the rand Banks of Newfoundland and gybed for the great circle route to Bishop's Rock, which will be our landfall for the UK. Now we are dead down wind and the true rolling is about to start!

Position at 0730
42 13N 49 46W

CdG's current position with grib wind overlay - 1926nm to Plymouth

Day 5 at Sea

Windy to start windy to finish with everyone trying to grab some sleep.

E and M woke to being bounced around in their bunks as the wind failed to veer as the gribs suggested. E retreated to Lidia's bunk, while Matthew just yelled, before being given my bunk.

Wind eased by lunchtime and Lidia made an appearance on deck feeling well enough to eat a bit. C too has partly recovered and made it through unch, but had to retreat to a bunk as well.

Around 1700 I noticed that the head board on the new main was not in close to the mast as it should be, and inspection through the binoculars showed that the bronze slide on the beadboard had chaffed through its webbing strap and now the next plastic slide down the main was over loading. R and I dropped the main and checked the slide. It was badly formed with two sharp edges on the inside and outside face. I filed it down and with R's help restitched new webbing round the slide and headboard while sitting atop the boom with my harness line round the mast. Photos to follow when we get them off R's camera.

Position while we wait for the pizza to cook is, at 18:50

42 16N 51 36W. 73 miles to the waypoint which is also the 1/4 way mark.

--

Marine Litter

Our rubbish doesn't only end up in the sea when we chuck it overboard from a boat. Most litter originates from our streets and sewers, so next time you consider dropping waste in the loo, try a bin instead:

Position at Dawn

A fast night with the wind on the beam.

42 02N 53 42W

Midnight Position

Big thunderstorms off to the south of us, but other wise a fine evening for a sail. Biggish S-SW swell running so boat is averaging ~6 knots but surfing to 9s.

All quiet down below, but with the occasional squawk from seabird disturbed from their sleep!

Position at midnight
41 55N 54 25W

--

Afternoon,Day 3.

Position at 1630
41 50N 55 22W

The seas are calming down, the rain has become less torrential and less frequent, but it's still all pretty damp.

Cornelius is still suffering,although the rest of the crew are beginning to brighten up. E is no playing with Lidia's iPad or similar in L's bunk while M plays Nintendo in mine.

Richard says "no bronzy bronzy weather!"

240 miles to our waypoint south of the Grand Banks and 2183 miles to go!

--

Bloody Windy

tshe stars have gone but the sun hasn't come out! Its blowing 30 odd knots from the SSW and pouring with rain. Lovely.

Morning position at 0630
41 53N 56 50W

2160nm to run to Plymouth by great circle route!

I can see stars!

For the first time since leaving Halifax, the sky has actually cleared. This might have been proceeded by a spell of torrential rain, strong easterly winds and a very lumpy sea, but none the less it is an event to be noted.

Now that the skies are clearing the wind has also swung to the south at around 20-25 knots, and we have finally picked up some speed, reaching at 7-8 knots. Which is good, but rather uncomfortable, as the seas still have a SE component, meaning we are crashing through them quite hard.

I have also played musical bunks with E and M. It is far too bouncy in their cabin tonight, so M has my bunk, and although E could have shared it with him, she elected to sleep on my cabin floor. I have the doghouse, which is fine as long as I sleep in wet weather gear, and keep my mouth shut. The deck leaks don't taste great!

Position as of midnight.
41 54N 57 58W

--

Afternoon Position

Well we had some lovely sailing for a few hours this morning, but it is back to motoring in very light head winds while we wait for the forecast blow. A bit lumpy so several crew are struggling with the motion.

Position at 16:00
41 54N 58 37W

--

Dawn, Day 3

Well that didn't last long, the wind only helped us for a couple of hours before dropping away. At least it gave me time to check the oil and top it up. Motoring again and now only 40 miles from our first way point south of Sable Island. Now expecting to start sailing properly in about 12 hours as the wind fills from the west.

Sable is is a long thin strip of sand about 100 miles SSE of Cape Breton and formed from the collision between the cold Labrador current, and the Gulf Stream. y staying well south we have kept clear of the cold water, hence the fog, and picked up a push from the Gulf Stream

Position at 0530 42 32N 59 34W

All times given as local, which is GMT -3.



--

Midnight position

On watch, gas run out, wind picking up. Changeed the gas, so it seems the right sort of time to update position and download a grib!

Position
42 49N 60 12W

Now for the grib.

--

Midday, Day Two

A long slow night motoring, and a dead calm mirrored atlantic for this morning. Forecast suggest not much wind for the next 24 hours either. Just as well we filled the fuel tank up. Just begining to get off the banks of Nova Scotia and into deep water.

The calm day and promise of a calm night has Cornelius offering to make fish pie for dinner!

E and M are doing school work, and complaining about it, and Lidia is still gaining her sea legs, but at least had some breakfast and lunch.

Postion 16:00 GMT
43 19, 61 06W.

--

First night back at sea

Position 44 00N 63 34W at 0230 GMT

We left Halifax just after lunch, with little wind and a calm forecast, suggesting lots of motoring for the first 24 hours to get clearof the next low coming through. The lumpy left over seas from TS Andrea made E and Lidia feel unwell, and M a bit off colour.

Now all are asleep except E who is feeling under the weather again.

--

Ready for Departure

James reports, "Andrea has gone through very wet and windy but not for very long. Another low forecast in 72 hours, so we are going to try and get south of it before it gets here and ride around the Azores high. Planning to leave about lunch time Sunday after last of fresh stores on board."

Tropical Storm Andrea

The hurricane season has started and Croix des Gardes is about to suffer the remants of the first storm - Andrea. It is bringing record rainfall to the northeast.

From James:

"Sitting out the remains of Hurricane Andrea today and looking at the next wet blast on Tues/Weds.  Might not get away until Wednesday morning now/.  Will try for Monday if it settles down a bit. Frustrating.

Lidia seems to be getting on very well with E andM.  She took E off for yesterday afternoon, and M played lego with Cornelius. Both were much more relaxed having some time apart."

A tourist day

As we had the car to collect Lidia, we thought we should see some of Nova Scotia.  There were two places that interested the crew. The old fishing village of Lunenburg to the south west, where the famous schooner Bluenose II is based, and Peggy's Cove, a small isolated fishing village immediately south of the RNSYS.

We had a not too early start allowing Lidia and the children to sleep in after last nights dinner, and R and I to go and do a spot of shopping.  Weather today? Perfect.  Forecast through to Tuesday? Rubbish.

Lunenburg was very pretty, quite and with a good museum.  Although the Bluenose was being worked o, covered in plastic, and like all big projects it was running late.  So we made do with look from outside the gates.  However Lunenburg had what we had so horribly missed yesterday.  A very good fish restaurant! R and C had mussels, I had scallops, E and M, fish cakes, and Lidia, still recovering from jet lag had a salad.  Superb all round.  So it can be done in Canada!

Back to Peggy's Cove after lunch to see a young lad on the wharf catching squid, as quickly as he could get the line back in the water!  M wanted a go.  E wanted a go.  But by the time they had messed about with the line, the squid had cottoned on to what was happening and there was no more luck.  Ah well, an entertaining time for us all.  Pictures to follow once downloaded.

Halifax Canada

Finally, after all the trauma, we have a full crew!  Lidia arrived as planned at Halifax, and E, M and I met her with no problems.  Very nice to meet her finally and the children have taken to her like the proverbial.

E and M drawing in a new sketch book from Cornelius

When we cleared in we mentioned her to customs and they took all her details, and passed them through to the airport, so she was received without problems.  Nice to know that some countries see sense.  The customs officers also recommended restaurants to us!

Which brings us nicely to dinner last night.  Richard had sought out advice on a good seafood restaurant to eat at, and was recommended somewhere in Bedford.  Not to be dissuaded by the name 5 of us drove to Bedford leaving Lidia to catch up on sleep.  Now we were all looking forward to pan fried fresh fish, or scallops, or mussels, and the seafood platter looked like a good bet.  E and M chose pizza.

Which raises the question, why was a seafood restaurant serving good fish (recommended by several locals) also serving pizza.  Well the answer was that if you didn't want everything deep fried to oblivion, then you should choose pizza!  The Atlantic cod fillets, scallops and mussels were virtually unrecognisable under the layers of batter.  0/10.

Another from the archive

Here's a shot of James in the single hander race of the Sweethearts of the Caribbean regatta, Tortola, February 2013:

Croix des Gardes sets off in Tortola single hander race

Approaching Halifax

Now running the last 20 odd miles to the entrance to Halifax Harbour. Running fast and surfing a bit, but all the crew seemed to have recovered from yesterday's bouncing about. Destination, the Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron to await Lidia.

Position as I type, at 06:30 is 44 10.5N, 63 52.4W. All crew asleep and hopefully we will make it into smooth water before E and M want their french toast and omlettes!

--

Croix des Gardes as she was in Antigua earlier this year

End of Day 2

Position 43 25N 65 17 W and about 10 miles south of Port la Tour in Nova Scotia.

It has been a uncomfortable then slow day. Thw ind has dropped right down to around 8-10 kts and our speed is down to 4. We are all dead tired from not sleeping much, except for E and M who are frustrated! Ah well we should be in Halifax in the morning!

--

Second Dawn

Position at 0715 2/6/13 43 00N, 66 21W

A fast if rather uncomfortable night. Lumpy seas from astern had us rolling and corkscrewing all yesterday and through the night. Thick fog came in about 2300, with vis to less than mile.

Although the children seem completely unaffected (they spent the afternoon making dens in cabins) Cornelius succumbed as is feeling very unwell this morning.

Now about 170 miles from Halifax and about 40 from the southern tip of Nova Scotia, we expect to arrive tomorrow sometime before lunch.



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Departure and first night out

We slipped away from NYYC about midday after a busy morning doing last minute jobs on a glassy water. Motoring out we started to get some breeze at the entrance, and finally started working our way back east. To give us all a calmer first night we elected to sail through Vineyard and Nantucket Sounds rather than put out to deep water and o round Nantucket shoals.

Running up Vineyard sound at about 16:00 saw the wind drop to almost nothing and the tide go foul and we though we might anchor for dinner and maybe the night. However before we could even reach the anchorage the wind came up quickly and we had to reef and the anchorage became untenable. We pushed on and had a quick pasta dinner before the children and I went to our bunks.

A rather hectic night for all ensued, as we dodge round the numerous shoals, clearing out into deep water at dawn. I think Cornelius and Richard found it a rather challenging night.

At 0900 we are at 41 47'N 69 25'W, seas are smooth, wind SW around 15 kts and CdG doing 6-7. Lovely clear skys.


--

Departure Day

After all the logistical nightmares of the last week, Richard and Cornelius finally made it to Newport on Wednesday night as planned. However Lidia hasn't made it here, but the resorceful girl has got herself a ticket to Halifax, Nova Scotia. So it is off to Canada and not Plymouth for us today.

It will be a pleasant and small or even insignificant diversion. Halifax lies as close to the great circle route as possible, so we will do no more distance, and hopefully reduce the longest time at sea to around 18 days.

E and M are slightly nonplussed. E wants to go back to England as soon as possible, while M is just generally nonplussed! E is however desperate to meet Lidia and have someone to take all her attention...

So last minute jobs this morning, a final stow and off to Canada, with a very light forecast.

Hair Cuts

Each day when we go into Newport we walk past a barber, and each day E says you need to get a haircut!  Each day I find and excuse.


However, one of my secretaries, having seen a photo of me on the blog, thought I was a “black guy with an afro”  really did drive home the fact that a haircut was required.  Matthew was also beginning to look like a shaggy dog, so we both had a haircut, mine is back to “normal” despite being a bit blond and grey and Matthew’s is here.  Quite smart now!


Last night we had “the best boat dinner ever” according to E, Mexican chicken with all the trimmings, salsa, sour cream and guacamole, with tortillas and spicy chicken fillets.  :)
 
Oh, and a movie too!  (but not a Mexican one)

US Customs and Immigration

We have to leave the US on the 31^st as our visa waivers expire.  The waiver is valid for 90 days, but that is from the first entry into the US, not the actual time spent in the US, so although we have only been her for around 6 weeks total, we have to go.

I had 3 extra crew planning to join us for the passage from here to Plymouth, Cornelius, a friend from the BCYC, Richard, a friend of Sarah’s from the gliding club and Lidia, a Spanish girl looking to be an au pair, and a sailor to boot.  Lidia to fly into NYC on the 24^th, and C and R on the 29^th.  Great, all sorted.

In anticipation of the US Immigration being concerned that they might not have a return ticket, I gave all of them a letter from me, quoting the boats official number, country of registration and the US Cruising Licence number.  All information about the boat is on the US Customs and Border Protection database, so if any US official wanted to verify the letters they could do so.

However Lidia got to Madrid airport with her letter, a valid ESTA and a ticket, but a US Immigration official decided that none of it was valid or genuine and refused her access to the flight.  Despite then providing him with a direct contact number for CBP here he didn’t want to know and wouldn’t change his mind.  A few days of stress ensued, could Lidia get here? No.  Could I sail with just the three of us? No.  Could I get us out of the US? Would I have to fly back to the UK and then get another ESTA to return?  Could we get to Canada instead?  Could Lidia get to Canada?  Could I get charts for Canada in time?  I didn’t sleep well.

Finally an email from Lidia, she has a flight to Canada, so we need to get to Halifax.  Only 430 miles and a good forecast is in the offing, maybe this will work, as long as R and C don’t have similar problems...

10 Days To Go

Ten days before we left Lisbon for our first Atlantic crossing were frantic. So much needed doing and there seemed so little time to sort it all out.  By comparison, 10 days before we need to leave the USA, the list is short, the days warm and sunny, and NYYC at Newport is a lovely relaxed place to prepare.  As I sit and type I can see classic schooners and 12 metres sailing past, where else could I do this?!  The suspension bridge arcs across the far side of the bay and the mast and pennant of the NYYC stands proud at the foot of the club dock.

We have settled into a daily routine, of breakfast then schoolwork in the mornings, with the afternoons spent at the club, or going into town shopping.

Sunday on the terrace, E met a couple with a parrot on their shoulder!  Pirates ahoy!

The children have made themselves at home in the club gardens, creating a den in a small thicket which seems to be even more popular than playing binweevils online in the doghouse. E has been working on the boat doing cleaning for me to earn pocket money and M is keen to find a job that he can do to earn money too.

I have a list of small spares items ordered and being brought out by crew.  The new main is on the way and we should get in on Thursday or Friday.  Then we need gas, fuel and food to be ready for the off.  Our first new crew member arrives on Friday night, and we shall meet her in NY, and come back to the boat on Saturday.

 

 

Staying in Newport

Best laid plans go astray.

We had been told that the new main would be here in Newport on May 15th, giving us enough time to sail back to NYC by the 24 to collect our new au pair, Lidia.  However a call to the sail maker yesterday revealed that it will not be in Newport until early next week, leaving us no time to get the sail sorted and get back to NYC.

Fortunately Newport is rather a nice place to be in the meantime.  Shops and laundry mat are not too far, the NYYC clubhouse is close enough that I can send this from the mooring, and the anchorage is well protected. 

People are friendly, there are playgrounds a short walk away and there are lost of pretty boats.  We are settling into a daily routine of breakfast then school work, followed by lunch. The afternoon is mostly spent ashore either at the club, playgrounds or doing more mundane things, such as the shopping.

However, staying here, leaves us with the small issue of getting Lidia and then Cornelius and Richard next week.  A hire car for the week and a couple of trips to NYC might be in order.  It’s a 6 hour round trip...

Photos to follow when I can get them off my phone...

New York Yacht Club

Hello, everyone.

At New York yacht club there were...

 

Sofas, armchairs and a fancy desk with a big mirror infront and a bowl of sweets on the desk... IN THE TOILETS!!! And there were about 20, 000 different soapes as well and a glass bottle of mouthwash with a glass sphere on top for a lid. The bench for the sinks were marble and there are is a basket of thick paper towles to dry your hands on. The lounge has three sofas and eight armchairs in it and the walls are covered with models of boats and shelves full of hardback books.

Elizabeth's blog

Hello, everyone. We are alongside a museum and we are leaving tomorrow morning at eight o' clock.  The weather has been nice and sunny and warm.  I dont really know what to say, but I am sadly not missing anyone for some reason.  Matthew is missing Tiernan, though. We are at McDonalds and James is eating apple pie. I would have said "dad" but then you wouldn't know what I mean.  I haven't been getting sea sick lately, but I think that is just because it has been calm.

New York to Mystic Seaport

After a week in New York, it was time to move on and brave the wild tides of Hell's Gate on the East River.  Critical timing for the tides to ensure they were not running so fast as to make us out of control, or against us meaning we would get nowhere.  A study of Eldridge, suggested a 0700 departure, but we also needed to get a pump out from the marina before we left.  The earliest we could do this was at 0730.  Half an hour late on the tide?  Not too much problem.

 

At 0730 there was no sign of the pump out boat.   At 0740 I gave them a call, "Just a few minutes".  At 0755, I abandoned the idea and ran the security cards back to office, saying we had to go.  0800 we were off, with the pump out guy waving saving he was just about to come to us!  Too late now, time and tide wait for no man etc.

 

We passed round the southern tip of Manhattan Is and then started up the East river.  By Brooklyn Bridge we were doing 7 knots over the ground, by the time we got to the channel divide around the island between Manhattan and Brooklyn we were doing 8, Approaching Hell's Gate we got to 9.5, and briefly touched 10. Lots of fast spinning eddies were more than April could cope with so it was hand steering all the way.  Apart from the odd glance on deck at the Manhattan skyline whizzing by, E and M stayed below in the warm.

 

Finally out into Long Island sound with a moderate SE wind to push us along, we got sail up (2 reefs and genny) and headed for Huntington.  At 1030 approaching Huntington Bay, I realised that out speed wasn't dropping with the expect tide change.  A quick look at Eldridge, showed a reverse eddy on off the bay, and if we went on for a couple of hours, we would pick up the main ebb down Long Island sound.  I decided to dropout a reef as the wind eased, but missed that one of the reef points was still tied in.   With a now familiar ripping sound the main split at the 2 reef line.  Too long to hand stitch, and the fabric obviously too old and week, we pushed on with 3 reefs in. 

 

New Haven is about 70 miles from New York, and we slipped in to Morris Cove at  the entrance around 1930 and dropped the hook a couple of hundred yards from the only other boat in sight.  A very peaceful spot.  In the morning we moved to the main anchorage in New Haven, but found it empty, and we went ashore to visit the city proper.  New Haven is the home to Yale University, but the town was not inspiring.  A surprising number of homeless in the park, and the marina attendant said he wouldn't recommend walking through the local neighbourhood!

 

Next stop Essex... Connecticut that is.

 

What a change from New Haven, a beautiful unspoilt river (except for the railway bridge we had to wait for) and rather like stretches of the Orwell, Stour or Blackwater in the original Essex.  We were made very welcome by the Essex Yacht Club, who apologised for not being able fly a British ensign for us!  We obliged by giving them our unused red courtesy ensign.  Essex is a tiny little town with a few upmarket shops and a friendly population.  Beautiful houses along the river, and an air of calm sophistication and wealth.

 

A short 25 mile hop along the coast in a fine SE, took as into Mystic Seaport, and it famous Seaport Museum, where we berthed.  It feels odd to be moored in a museum, completely empty at night, and busy with visitors during the day.  Another nice spot and a good chance for the children to do a project on the exhibits and activities of a working port from the last century.  Coopers, milliners,  hoop shops and working sailing ships for starters.

 

Rhode Island next stop!

 

 

Manhatten on Sea

New York has a close association with the water and visiting by sea proved wonderful. We found friendly berth at Liberty Landing Marina in New Jersey, adjoining the Liberty State Park and with a frequent water taxi across the Hudson to Manhattan's World Trade Centre. We had been warned of shocking marina fees and had been previously quoted $6 per foot per night, but Liberty Landing berthed us for a mere $1.43 per foot. What a bargain way to stay in New York and with spectacular views of Manhattan just across the river!

Sailing on The Hudson - view from our marina

We did everything with the only proviso that if we missed the last ferry back at 20:45 we'd have to take the PATH train to New Jersey City for $2.25 and then an $8 cab ride back to the marina. New York proved welcoming and stunning. The city does not seem as nearly as crowded as London. The architecture has been carefully planned as the city evolved and public transport is safe, cheap and efficient. Even public hubs such as Grand Central became frequent haunts for us as we enjoyed the amazing architecture, spacious and high class dining concourse and the scores of free Apple iPads, iPhones and Macbooks to use for internet browsing.

Elizabeth on the BIG piano at toystore FAO Schwarz

James, as a member of the Royal Sydney, had arranged a letter of introduction to the New York Yacht Club and we had opportunity for several visits including a fine dinner. The model room is reminiscent of a galleon, with large ornate bay windows. Below this is the dining room which has the feel of being below decks on the same vessel. All club members' boats are represented as half models, as are all the America's Cup boats. We saw the models of the J-class we had sailed with in Europe, including Endeavour who had sailed to see us start our Transat Classique in Cascais back in December. We saw the model of challenger Sceptre which gave James' father his first taste of sailing on a delivery voyage south with old friend and delivery skipper Iain Forsyth. We saw other boats which are now members of the British Classic Yacht Club represented on those famous walls, such as the Fife, Argyll. Above all, we enjoyed their hospitality and fine dining. James intends to visit their waterfront club house, Harbour Court, in Rhode Island next month.

The Model Room of the NYYC

The Americans have shown themselves to be courteous and hospitable in the extreme. Not only did Eric Sirulnik come good on his offer of hospitality, but day to day Americans would just stop and talk to us about their country when they overheard our accents. We had even been hailed for a friendly chat by the Baltimore pilot who was taking a Liberian tanker past us up the Chesapeake, and the subway driver on my last day spotted my large bags and left his cab several times on the journey to check I was OK, chat and ensure I used the best stop for my onward transfer to JFK. We would never see that in the UK. Around New York, we saw many still affected by the aftermath of superstorm Sandy. Aid tents are still in action in New Jersey and many businesses remain closed pending renovations. Despite this, New Yorkers have shown great resilience wrought from a decade of disasters and were among the most open and exhuberant of all Americans we met.

So, I have made my own farewells to Croix des Gardes and my family as James take the children further on their voyage. I hope he will continue to update this blog on their adventures. He plans to catch the early tide tomorrow at 7am up the East River and past Hell's Gate into Long Island Sound. He will anchor off thirty miles away and make his way up to Newport and Mystic. He will return to New York the last week in May to meet a new au pair who  intends to sail back as well as Cornelius and Richard who are flying out to crew. He has to leave the USA on May 31st due to visa constraints but may consider hopping up to Halifax to shorten the last voyage and wait for a weather window. Either way, I wish them fair winds and smooth seas and will see them again on their return to the UK later in the summer.

New York, New York

Dawn from Liberty Island, New York

Yesterday afternoon we sailed into New York Harbor and anchored just 200 yards west of Liberty Island for the night. After a lazy morning, mainly admiring the view and eating American style pancakes, we moved round to Liberty Landing Marina which will be our home for the last week of my voyage. We are now enjoying a late brunch in the crisp NYC sunshine just a block away from Ground Zero.

View from our anchorage

Delaware Bay to New Jersey (19/4/13)

The guide said the wide, forty-mile long Delaware Bay "can feel like it's 400 miles long" and it did. The currents run hard and we had the wind against us. At first, we hugged the shoals and passed close to the Salem nuclear power station in the murk to escape the ferocity of the tide in the main channel. James had suggested sitting it out until the tide turned to help us down the bay. Fortunately we didn't as conditions were slower and tougher when the tide turned. The wind over tide kicked up a nasty short and steep sea. Under power, we were barely making 2kts progress and April the autohelm's off course alarm was perpetually sounding as she lost steerage and blew round. We found the best tactic was to raise a triple reefed main and bear away thirty degrees, still under full power, which allowed us to make four to five knots' progress as we tacked up the main channel. Night fell and we still weren't out of the bay and again we were fighting the flood but at least the sea was smoother. Shipping was heavy and the fog was patchy – a massive dry dock passed a couple of hundred metres from us under tow up to Philadelphia, and another vessel hailed us in the dark to ensure we would remain clear.

In the early hours, we rounded Cape May shoals and bore away up the New Jersey coast and enjoyed the silence of being under sail. The morning dawned with lighter winds and dense fog. It was eerie to be at sea again with nothing in sight nor on the AIS and no shoals or marks to dodge. Our first landmark was Atlantic City. The hotel and casino towers punched out the top of the fog looking like the deformed bows of massive ships. Atlantic City held no attraction to us save for the availability of an easy and safe inlet if we needed to dodge inland to escape the forecast gales. We saw nothing else of the coast that day. Late evening, the forecast southerly gales began to build rapidly. We reduced sail to three reefs and a slither of genoa poled out as we swerved downwind and surfed the building waves. A steady current with us prevented the seas from building badly and within a few hours we were approaching the shelter of our destination – Sandy Hook. The fog had thickened but the sea was still visible in the darkness under a pervading sodium glow from New York to our north. Entering the channel to round the Hook, James took the helm as I stood on the foredeck to try to spot the channel lights, but most we just heard as we passed them.

At the top of the hook, the fog lifted rapidly and then the temperature rose over ten degrees in a matter of moments. We had rounded the north end of the spit and the wind now had a long land track up the warmed New Jersey dunes. It felt like standing under a hand dryer. To our north, the lights of downtown New York glistened behind the Verrazano Narrows Bridge. We were still making nine to ten knots with just the triple reefed main but had to motorsail once more as we headed south for the breakwater and mooring of the Atlantic Highlands Municipal Marina. We followed the New York ferry in and James deftly picked a path through the minefield of deserted moorings, posts and shallows to a safe spot for the night.

Aftermath of Sandy (20/4/13)

We were glad of the shelter by dawn. The southerly gale had turned northwesterly but we were safe and secure behind the breakwater, listening to the wind howling in the rigging. We were looking forward to the shower, laundry, wifi and playground facilities of the marina but didn't even fancy the trip across to the shore as even here the water was choppy and the wind cold. Then James looked more closely at the marina – there were no boats in the water, all the moorings were abandoned and the strops looked like they had been discarded a long time, the pontoons were missing, there was a boat on its side on the shore and many construction barges and cranes. James tried to hail them on the VHF and then by telephone but there was no response. We began to remember the destruction of hurricane Sandy last autumn and that this was the area it made landfall. I'd seen a New Jersey bridge destroyed and the recent charts did indeed show a bridge "under construction" nearby.

We telephoned another nearby marina to try to secure a berth but again got no reply. We intend to move on to New York but need shoreside facilities and information before we commit to moving into that busy harbour. James also recalled that many of the smaller marinas opposite Manhatten had also been hit hard by Sandy and may not have reopened. If anyone back at home can find out some information and ring us on James' phone, we'd be grateful!

Northern Chesapeake (17/4/13)

Leaving Annapolis, we immediately passed below the Chesapeake Bay Bridge which joins the east and west coasts of Maryland. The wind had turned squally and was against us as we tacked hard up the bay past the Magothy River. By evening, we had reached Baltimore. We had been alongside her namesake in Annapolis and had been invited aboard for a tour of Pride of Baltimore II by her captain. She is of similar vintage to the Amistad which we saw in San Juan. Such fast schooners were made illegal after the war of 1812 due to their exceptional performance, so those that continued to sail tended towards smuggling and privateering.

The original Pride of Baltimore had been involved in action against the British. The Americans had declared was on Britain by invading and occupying part of Canada, as they believed the British to be too preoccupied by Napoleonic France. They were wrong and the British retaliated by burning Baltimore and taking the flag. A poem written by a witness to this fall was later put to music and became USA national anthem, 'The Star Spangled Banner'.

Higher up, the Chesapeake narrows and becomes less populated again. The perpetual trip hazards of the trotlines and bait pots in the water lessen and the water becomes much quieter. We anchored in Still Pond (actually a small bay) overnight then continued up into the Elk River. This soon leads into the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal or C&D Canal as it is known colloquially. Given the cold, overcast and wet day, we decided that it better stood for the Cold and Dank Canal. Even the ospreys looked bedraggled and needed to shake off the rain in flight.

Leaving the canal into the Delaware Bay, it is obvious this is a very different body of water. The Delaware is saltier and once again we have to contend with currents and tidal ranges. There are few creeks and rivers and its shores are very shoal with just a narrow ship channel through the wide bay. There were few vessels other than the ships and tugs running up to Philadelphia or through to Baltimore, and no signs of fishing.

The forecast was for decidedly miserable weather to come and so we steamed against the wind and tide to escape the Delaware and head up the New Jersey coast before the forecast winds would cut us off from New York.

Annapolis

We are now entering some of the denser populated areas in The Bay. We left the wilderness of Rhodes River under a trickle of wind, tacked up past the Thomas Point Lighthouse – the last screwpile lighthouse on the Chesapeake still in its original location, and now a National Monument – and into the Severn River. In the bay, rows of immense and empty bulkers sat at anchor waiting for an upturn in the economy.

Annapolis skyline

Up river, the skyline becomes dominated by sailboat masts and impressive classic architecture. The iconic dome of the chapel of the US Naval Academy rises over 18^th and 19^th century rooftops in the historic downtown area. The city dock remains almost as it was a century ago. The bustling bars, restaurants and souvenir stores remain in store fronts untouched by modern progress. As you amble up Main Street to the State Circle and then along Maryland to the Academy, it is like being in a living and working museum. There is no modern architecture anywhere and many of the houses are now museums or historic inns.

Historic homes in downtown Annapolis

The Academy itself is open to visitors. The whole campus is constructed of white stone and verdigris. The Halls are lavishly decorated with classic paintings and hung with chandeliers. The whole is a combination of the Old Royal Naval College at Greenwich and the Royal Yacht Squadron at Cowes, but on a much larger and even grander scale. The museum houses important naval history artefacts from before the birth of the nation right up to present conflicts.

Inside the USNA

On arriving back at the rib, a passer-by with his dog asked if we were “off that cutter in the bay”. He had watched us arrive and reckoned we’d be the “prettiest boat in Annapolis all season”. He’d even rung his brother who’d passed on the message to all their friends to get down to see us. Another dinghy later hailed us and said they’d been the yacht that we followed into Solomons through the torrential thunderstorm the other day. They were here from Florida to see their son graduate from the USNA this weekend.

USNA chapel

Finally, the culmination to the Annapolis hospitality came as we had to leave our mooring. We were invited to come alongside at the City Docks next to the historic schooner Pride of Baltimore for free, ‘on loan’ to the Sailing Hall of Fame. We get to spend a couple more days here, enjoying the fantastic seafood and architecture whilst acting as a living museum exhibit. Thank you, Annapolis!

Sunrise on the Severn River