Manhatten on Sea

New York has a close association with the water and visiting by sea proved wonderful. We found friendly berth at Liberty Landing Marina in New Jersey, adjoining the Liberty State Park and with a frequent water taxi across the Hudson to Manhattan's World Trade Centre. We had been warned of shocking marina fees and had been previously quoted $6 per foot per night, but Liberty Landing berthed us for a mere $1.43 per foot. What a bargain way to stay in New York and with spectacular views of Manhattan just across the river!

Sailing on The Hudson - view from our marina

We did everything with the only proviso that if we missed the last ferry back at 20:45 we'd have to take the PATH train to New Jersey City for $2.25 and then an $8 cab ride back to the marina. New York proved welcoming and stunning. The city does not seem as nearly as crowded as London. The architecture has been carefully planned as the city evolved and public transport is safe, cheap and efficient. Even public hubs such as Grand Central became frequent haunts for us as we enjoyed the amazing architecture, spacious and high class dining concourse and the scores of free Apple iPads, iPhones and Macbooks to use for internet browsing.

Elizabeth on the BIG piano at toystore FAO Schwarz

James, as a member of the Royal Sydney, had arranged a letter of introduction to the New York Yacht Club and we had opportunity for several visits including a fine dinner. The model room is reminiscent of a galleon, with large ornate bay windows. Below this is the dining room which has the feel of being below decks on the same vessel. All club members' boats are represented as half models, as are all the America's Cup boats. We saw the models of the J-class we had sailed with in Europe, including Endeavour who had sailed to see us start our Transat Classique in Cascais back in December. We saw the model of challenger Sceptre which gave James' father his first taste of sailing on a delivery voyage south with old friend and delivery skipper Iain Forsyth. We saw other boats which are now members of the British Classic Yacht Club represented on those famous walls, such as the Fife, Argyll. Above all, we enjoyed their hospitality and fine dining. James intends to visit their waterfront club house, Harbour Court, in Rhode Island next month.

The Model Room of the NYYC

The Americans have shown themselves to be courteous and hospitable in the extreme. Not only did Eric Sirulnik come good on his offer of hospitality, but day to day Americans would just stop and talk to us about their country when they overheard our accents. We had even been hailed for a friendly chat by the Baltimore pilot who was taking a Liberian tanker past us up the Chesapeake, and the subway driver on my last day spotted my large bags and left his cab several times on the journey to check I was OK, chat and ensure I used the best stop for my onward transfer to JFK. We would never see that in the UK. Around New York, we saw many still affected by the aftermath of superstorm Sandy. Aid tents are still in action in New Jersey and many businesses remain closed pending renovations. Despite this, New Yorkers have shown great resilience wrought from a decade of disasters and were among the most open and exhuberant of all Americans we met.

So, I have made my own farewells to Croix des Gardes and my family as James take the children further on their voyage. I hope he will continue to update this blog on their adventures. He plans to catch the early tide tomorrow at 7am up the East River and past Hell's Gate into Long Island Sound. He will anchor off thirty miles away and make his way up to Newport and Mystic. He will return to New York the last week in May to meet a new au pair who  intends to sail back as well as Cornelius and Richard who are flying out to crew. He has to leave the USA on May 31st due to visa constraints but may consider hopping up to Halifax to shorten the last voyage and wait for a weather window. Either way, I wish them fair winds and smooth seas and will see them again on their return to the UK later in the summer.