New York to Mystic Seaport

After a week in New York, it was time to move on and brave the wild tides of Hell's Gate on the East River.  Critical timing for the tides to ensure they were not running so fast as to make us out of control, or against us meaning we would get nowhere.  A study of Eldridge, suggested a 0700 departure, but we also needed to get a pump out from the marina before we left.  The earliest we could do this was at 0730.  Half an hour late on the tide?  Not too much problem.

 

At 0730 there was no sign of the pump out boat.   At 0740 I gave them a call, "Just a few minutes".  At 0755, I abandoned the idea and ran the security cards back to office, saying we had to go.  0800 we were off, with the pump out guy waving saving he was just about to come to us!  Too late now, time and tide wait for no man etc.

 

We passed round the southern tip of Manhattan Is and then started up the East river.  By Brooklyn Bridge we were doing 7 knots over the ground, by the time we got to the channel divide around the island between Manhattan and Brooklyn we were doing 8, Approaching Hell's Gate we got to 9.5, and briefly touched 10. Lots of fast spinning eddies were more than April could cope with so it was hand steering all the way.  Apart from the odd glance on deck at the Manhattan skyline whizzing by, E and M stayed below in the warm.

 

Finally out into Long Island sound with a moderate SE wind to push us along, we got sail up (2 reefs and genny) and headed for Huntington.  At 1030 approaching Huntington Bay, I realised that out speed wasn't dropping with the expect tide change.  A quick look at Eldridge, showed a reverse eddy on off the bay, and if we went on for a couple of hours, we would pick up the main ebb down Long Island sound.  I decided to dropout a reef as the wind eased, but missed that one of the reef points was still tied in.   With a now familiar ripping sound the main split at the 2 reef line.  Too long to hand stitch, and the fabric obviously too old and week, we pushed on with 3 reefs in. 

 

New Haven is about 70 miles from New York, and we slipped in to Morris Cove at  the entrance around 1930 and dropped the hook a couple of hundred yards from the only other boat in sight.  A very peaceful spot.  In the morning we moved to the main anchorage in New Haven, but found it empty, and we went ashore to visit the city proper.  New Haven is the home to Yale University, but the town was not inspiring.  A surprising number of homeless in the park, and the marina attendant said he wouldn't recommend walking through the local neighbourhood!

 

Next stop Essex... Connecticut that is.

 

What a change from New Haven, a beautiful unspoilt river (except for the railway bridge we had to wait for) and rather like stretches of the Orwell, Stour or Blackwater in the original Essex.  We were made very welcome by the Essex Yacht Club, who apologised for not being able fly a British ensign for us!  We obliged by giving them our unused red courtesy ensign.  Essex is a tiny little town with a few upmarket shops and a friendly population.  Beautiful houses along the river, and an air of calm sophistication and wealth.

 

A short 25 mile hop along the coast in a fine SE, took as into Mystic Seaport, and it famous Seaport Museum, where we berthed.  It feels odd to be moored in a museum, completely empty at night, and busy with visitors during the day.  Another nice spot and a good chance for the children to do a project on the exhibits and activities of a working port from the last century.  Coopers, milliners,  hoop shops and working sailing ships for starters.

 

Rhode Island next stop!