Annapolis

We are now entering some of the denser populated areas in The Bay. We left the wilderness of Rhodes River under a trickle of wind, tacked up past the Thomas Point Lighthouse – the last screwpile lighthouse on the Chesapeake still in its original location, and now a National Monument – and into the Severn River. In the bay, rows of immense and empty bulkers sat at anchor waiting for an upturn in the economy.

Annapolis skyline

Up river, the skyline becomes dominated by sailboat masts and impressive classic architecture. The iconic dome of the chapel of the US Naval Academy rises over 18^th and 19^th century rooftops in the historic downtown area. The city dock remains almost as it was a century ago. The bustling bars, restaurants and souvenir stores remain in store fronts untouched by modern progress. As you amble up Main Street to the State Circle and then along Maryland to the Academy, it is like being in a living and working museum. There is no modern architecture anywhere and many of the houses are now museums or historic inns.

Historic homes in downtown Annapolis

The Academy itself is open to visitors. The whole campus is constructed of white stone and verdigris. The Halls are lavishly decorated with classic paintings and hung with chandeliers. The whole is a combination of the Old Royal Naval College at Greenwich and the Royal Yacht Squadron at Cowes, but on a much larger and even grander scale. The museum houses important naval history artefacts from before the birth of the nation right up to present conflicts.

Inside the USNA

On arriving back at the rib, a passer-by with his dog asked if we were “off that cutter in the bay”. He had watched us arrive and reckoned we’d be the “prettiest boat in Annapolis all season”. He’d even rung his brother who’d passed on the message to all their friends to get down to see us. Another dinghy later hailed us and said they’d been the yacht that we followed into Solomons through the torrential thunderstorm the other day. They were here from Florida to see their son graduate from the USNA this weekend.

USNA chapel

Finally, the culmination to the Annapolis hospitality came as we had to leave our mooring. We were invited to come alongside at the City Docks next to the historic schooner Pride of Baltimore for free, ‘on loan’ to the Sailing Hall of Fame. We get to spend a couple more days here, enjoying the fantastic seafood and architecture whilst acting as a living museum exhibit. Thank you, Annapolis!

Sunrise on the Severn River