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Sunday 17 February 2013

Culture Shift

The longer passage west to the BVIs has also marked somewhat of a step change in the culture we see. Although the USVIs and BVIs are still technically the Lesser Antilles, they have more in common with their near neighbour Pueto Rico than our previous destinations. We are obviously far closer to the USA than previously.

The BVIs are sparse inhabited and the main income revolves around the yacht tourism industry. Even the 'residents' have usually arrived by yacht and remain keen sailors. The accents have shifted from a Caribbean lilt to more pure USA. The North Americans here for the season with their own boats seem equally from South Carolina as from Ontario, whilst Europeans tend to be confined to the myriad hoards of Sunsail and Moorings boats.

Housing is more spacious and luxurious. The villas remind me of the modern but roomy developments in the northern suburbs of Perth. Even in the 'towns', the proportion of single room shacks is tiny compared with the other islands we've seen. Similarly, there is a greater proportion of white faces - possibly outnumbering the Afro-Caribbeans here. Marina and dive staff all seem to be white ex-pats.

The stores reflect this change also. We're now in areas with recognisable supermarkets and minimarts where we really can buy everything in one hit. We see branded goods we recognise, both European and American brands. Gone are the street fruit and veg sellers too. These islands are truly little enclaves of the USA in the sun.

I've also found out more on the lionfish issue. The Anegada "Dark and Stormy" regatta will be hosting a lionfish derby on the Sunday to further encourage control of this species. The fish was introduced in the early 1990s from the Indo-Pacific and "doesn't belong here". They breed extremely rapidly and devour huge numbers of native reef fish until they swarm over the reefs. The state had a control programme in place initially but this was replaced by a dedicated charity which monitors sightings and provides reef tags to mark new outbreaks. With a fish capable of laying hundreds of eggs every few days, they may be chasing a lost cause.

Similarly, it is getting harder to find healthy reefs to snorkel on. Many of the likely candidates are suffering from large quantities of coral rubble and sand thrown up from hurricanes, whilst more sheltered areas are suffering dieback as well. The BVI guide comments that Caribbean coral reef is declining at a rate similar to the loss of the Amazonian rain forests, and then continues to explain how the remaining reefs can be enjoyed sympathetically. The sea temperature is down to 25 degrees now but still hits 31 in summer - too hot for some corals which start to suffer bleaching above 29C.

1 comment:

  1. no chance of free fruit in the gutter then. love mum xx

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