In the morning of Wednesday, we realised we’d have to head to Customs
and Immigration as James noticed that we were about to overstay our welcome in the
BVIs. First we got to snorkel and dive on The Indians – four spectacular rock
pinnacles rising from the sea bed and conveniently equipped with mooring buoys.
We then headed dead downwind to Soper’s Hole at West End –
a port of clearance. This protected anchorage is home to dead tugs and yachts,
wall-to-wall moorings, a cheap and extensively stocked supermarket and a hoard
of brightly painted expensive designer boutiques, including a Pusser’s Rum
store and restaurant. Unfortunately, local immigration couldn’t help us – we have
a 24hr window to go to HQ in Road Town if we wish to stay – so we left and
battled back upwind.
We dropped anchor in The Bight on Norman Island. At the
entrance lies Treasure Point with its enticing natural caves. Spanish gold was
found here and this allegedly was the inspiration for the novel “Treasure
Island”. Both children loved snorkelling from the rib past large schools of
large jacks and schoolmasters up to the caves. One was particularly deep,
ending in a small beach in the gloom. This was where the treasure had been
stashed but both children were too scared to go too far in.
Back on board, we visited the local pub – a two-master
schooner, the Willy T with it’s
reputation for cheap rum and wild partying. The music did indeed continue into
the night which was just as well as we had dragged our anchor. By morning, we
had drifted a good 100m and could see our anchor on the sea bed, scouring along
sitting perfectly inverted and failing to dig into anything. The wind was light
so we moved it a bit and continued a leisurely morning snorkelling with
starfish and stingrays. Every minute Matthew would pop up filled with bubbling
over enthusiasm at some new critter he’d seen.
We then reached back to Road Town where James met up with
Jade and Nichole in Immigration, also trying to extend their stays. We were
then able to return some of the hospitality of the Royal BVI Yacht Club by
offering them a burgee of the Royal Sydney Yacht Squadron and the Royal Harwich
for their bar.