Leave of Stay

In the morning of Wednesday, we realised we’d have to head to Customs and Immigration as James noticed that we were about to overstay our welcome in the BVIs. First we got to snorkel and dive on The Indians – four spectacular rock pinnacles rising from the sea bed and conveniently equipped with mooring buoys.

We then headed dead downwind to Soper’s Hole at West End – a port of clearance. This protected anchorage is home to dead tugs and yachts, wall-to-wall moorings, a cheap and extensively stocked supermarket and a hoard of brightly painted expensive designer boutiques, including a Pusser’s Rum store and restaurant. Unfortunately, local immigration couldn’t help us – we have a 24hr window to go to HQ in Road Town if we wish to stay – so we left and battled back upwind.

We dropped anchor in The Bight on Norman Island. At the entrance lies Treasure Point with its enticing natural caves. Spanish gold was found here and this allegedly was the inspiration for the novel “Treasure Island”. Both children loved snorkelling from the rib past large schools of large jacks and schoolmasters up to the caves. One was particularly deep, ending in a small beach in the gloom. This was where the treasure had been stashed but both children were too scared to go too far in.

Back on board, we visited the local pub – a two-master schooner, the Willy T with it’s reputation for cheap rum and wild partying. The music did indeed continue into the night which was just as well as we had dragged our anchor. By morning, we had drifted a good 100m and could see our anchor on the sea bed, scouring along sitting perfectly inverted and failing to dig into anything. The wind was light so we moved it a bit and continued a leisurely morning snorkelling with starfish and stingrays. Every minute Matthew would pop up filled with bubbling over enthusiasm at some new critter he’d seen.

We then reached back to Road Town where James met up with Jade and Nichole in Immigration, also trying to extend their stays. We were then able to return some of the hospitality of the Royal BVI Yacht Club by offering them a burgee of the Royal Sydney Yacht Squadron and the Royal Harwich for their bar.