The greatest advantage of being an independent traveller on a boat is that you get to see a country beyond the tourist facade. Barbados is a land of diametric contrasts. On the one hand, it is a paradise playground for the mega-wealthy, whilst on the other it is witness to great hardship and shanty-towns. The climate is benign, so if you can find enough to eat you can survive.
Barbados is rarely visited by yachtsmen. It harboured a reputation for lack of facilities and is also around 100 miles to windward of the rest of the Antilles chain, making it an arduous passage for American visitors from the north. European boats tend to bypass Barbados and head straight for St. Lucia where they have built a customised marina for the ARC (a transatlantic rally aimed at those of little or no ocean experience and attracting around 1500 boats per year). The Barbados Government are keen to remedy this and have invested heavily in bringing the Transat Classique here and so attracting future visitors.
The Bridgetown careening where we are moored has been recently modified. The barriers have been moved to allow us more space and we understand that police are constantly guarding us from afar and that locals are utterly barred from crossing the barriers. On arrival, we were greeted by a local fixer, Jimmy, who offered his services. We accepted and gave him our laundry which was returned promptly, but with a £75US price tag. This was a shock. The next shock was when we tried to provision. It took a couple of days to find the supermarket, but supplies are sparse and exorbitantly expensive. Staples such as milk and bread cost four times what we pay in Tesco and fresh meat is scarce. Fruits and vegetables are bought from he local stall holders who line all the local roads, but again prices are extremely high (and not just because we are white visitors). The only cheap item is rum.
Our hosts explained that even for them food is dear. If someone visits another island or has friends overseas, they arrange a barrel of provisions to be shipped in to ease the burden of expenditure. Even Matthew noted that everyone here is "skinny". The restaurant fare too lacks the European sophistication that we come to take for granted abroad.
However, what the country lacks in facilities, it makes up for in its people. Everyone is friendly, happy to help without trying to exploit us, and the parties have been legendary. We have been universally heralded by rich and poor alike, able to chat to passing locals and invited to soirees by the mega-rich, including an introduction to the Prime Minister.
The children have been rather shocked by the change of life. Due to costs and lack of groceries, our diet has become quite spartan compared to the crossing as we attempt to eek out our remaining supplies. I managed to find a lettuce yesterday - the first I've seen since arrival - and this was brought back aboard with much ceremony. They are also learning fast the importance of good hygiene in tropical climates. We have to contend with biting midges and mosquitoes, and any food that is not immediately cleared rapidly becomes invested with maggots. The children are also now having to pack clothes and toys away tidily at once to prevent unwanted visitors taking up residence among them.
We are hoping to get some sight-seeing in before we leave as there are caves and forests to explore, but meanwhile we continue to enjoy the hospitality and the endless silver sandy beaches.
Barbados is rarely visited by yachtsmen. It harboured a reputation for lack of facilities and is also around 100 miles to windward of the rest of the Antilles chain, making it an arduous passage for American visitors from the north. European boats tend to bypass Barbados and head straight for St. Lucia where they have built a customised marina for the ARC (a transatlantic rally aimed at those of little or no ocean experience and attracting around 1500 boats per year). The Barbados Government are keen to remedy this and have invested heavily in bringing the Transat Classique here and so attracting future visitors.
The Bridgetown careening where we are moored has been recently modified. The barriers have been moved to allow us more space and we understand that police are constantly guarding us from afar and that locals are utterly barred from crossing the barriers. On arrival, we were greeted by a local fixer, Jimmy, who offered his services. We accepted and gave him our laundry which was returned promptly, but with a £75US price tag. This was a shock. The next shock was when we tried to provision. It took a couple of days to find the supermarket, but supplies are sparse and exorbitantly expensive. Staples such as milk and bread cost four times what we pay in Tesco and fresh meat is scarce. Fruits and vegetables are bought from he local stall holders who line all the local roads, but again prices are extremely high (and not just because we are white visitors). The only cheap item is rum.
Our hosts explained that even for them food is dear. If someone visits another island or has friends overseas, they arrange a barrel of provisions to be shipped in to ease the burden of expenditure. Even Matthew noted that everyone here is "skinny". The restaurant fare too lacks the European sophistication that we come to take for granted abroad.
However, what the country lacks in facilities, it makes up for in its people. Everyone is friendly, happy to help without trying to exploit us, and the parties have been legendary. We have been universally heralded by rich and poor alike, able to chat to passing locals and invited to soirees by the mega-rich, including an introduction to the Prime Minister.
The children have been rather shocked by the change of life. Due to costs and lack of groceries, our diet has become quite spartan compared to the crossing as we attempt to eek out our remaining supplies. I managed to find a lettuce yesterday - the first I've seen since arrival - and this was brought back aboard with much ceremony. They are also learning fast the importance of good hygiene in tropical climates. We have to contend with biting midges and mosquitoes, and any food that is not immediately cleared rapidly becomes invested with maggots. The children are also now having to pack clothes and toys away tidily at once to prevent unwanted visitors taking up residence among them.
We are hoping to get some sight-seeing in before we leave as there are caves and forests to explore, but meanwhile we continue to enjoy the hospitality and the endless silver sandy beaches.
sounds like perfect place for new year diet - i'll send your father over. Any spare land seems to used for the cultivation of a strange smelling tobacco - so not much room for lettuce. You may find all the islands expensive on fresh foods as much needs to be imported - clue is to eat like the locals. Have you spotted Rihanna or Beyonce yet - both are on the island - as is Mrs. Rooney and Junior. First mild sunny day here to herald in a new year - love mum xx
ReplyDeleteE desperate to meet Rihanna. We saw her house from the boat the other day. We hear she has already left for New York. We seem to be only mixing with the 'real' rich, not the glossy celebs ; )
DeleteHappy New Year. Rihanna was papped the other day in her hotel changing bikinis (See one of the Barbados papers). Very pretty girl good for octagenarian billionaires. Lots of love Dad xxxx
ReplyDeleteRihanna was there to donate several million to the local hospital in memory of her grandmother. Give E and M a big hug and say I loved her message - and the spelling was perfect - well done. love mum xx
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