Civilisation

James was despatched first thing to clear in at 0700 when the customs officer was due to arrive. We had heard of waiting times in excess of two hours from other transat boats, even French national ones.  The children were equally excited about arriving in a place with “real bread” and pains au chocolat and style. They both dressed accordingly – Matthew in a white shirt open at the neck and smart beige shorts, Elizabeth in a denim miniskirt and cropped stripy top with sunhat and shades. Even James had shaved for the occasion.

Crowded anchorage at Marin, Martinique

James returned before 8am but had failed to clear in. The pilot was out of date and now we had to clear with the captain of the port who should arrive at 8am. This was a shame as we could have cleared in Sunday afternoon after all and gone ashore to see the street carnival we had heard which marked the end of the traditional local fishing boat regatta. However, he did return with… a crusty ficelle, two croissants and two pains au chocolat!! Delightful! He soon returned ashore to clear in – Artaius had warned us of two hour waits, but it only took minutes and he was soon back so we could venture ashore.

Once on land, we found a little piece of France in the Caribbean. We could be in the newer areas of Toulouse. There are indeed supermarkets with real European food, the mobile phone thinks it is in Europe, the internet works, the locals are mainly white. James got real chandlery including some LED lights he’d been after, Elizabeth got shoes, there are stores with decent clothes in them and now we’ve settled down for lunch at a nice bistro serving cheap wine and decent food. Shame the view consists of over 1000 yachts with the same idea.

The population is very westernised. Buildings look more at home in modern French city outskirts and there the lack of hovels is evident. Even he cars on the road are typical of France – mainly Renault and Citroen but with some VWs and Opels – albeit the average age and condition is a bit tattier than in the metropole. We read that the standard of living is higher here than in other islands, and many adults go to France to study. Despite that, Martinique has a huge trade deficit and receives large amounts of financial aid from France each year.

We met Jane and Adrian from Bluebird again – evidently the three months of wind surfing in Barbados hadn’t worked out for them. We also saw Gabrielle, the young Belgian teacher who had been waiting for the arrival of Marie des Isles with us in Barbados. Marie des Isles was also now in Le Marin marina, along with Gweneven and Gabrielle was boat-sitting another vessel with her boyfriend, but was longing for an escape to a wilder island again.

We moved round to St. Anne for an afternoon snorkel – the reef here is OK despite the French propensity for spear fishing and the proliferation of lobster pots. The fish were mainly small and the coral and sponges small but healthy among sand patches. Again there were large numbers of spiny sea urchins and also now abundant sea cucumbers. I brought one back to the rib for a moment to show Matthew who was equally disgusted and intrigued by the strange leathery animal, shaped like a poo and squirting water into his lap.

James later spotted an Australian boat anchored off St. Anne and invited the residents across for a drink. Alan and Bridget had sold up and were living aboard in the Caribbean, but after two years had grown tired of the crowds, spiralling costs and deteriorating coral. They now plan to cross the Atlantic this year and spend some time in cooler climes touring Ireland.