Fort de France

Today was the Day of Reckoning. We planned a downwind leg from Le Marin to Fort de France, so it was a chance to try the ‘new’ genoa. With trepidation, we hoisted it. It fitted! Off we set in another brisk breeze and it worked beautifully – thanks Mat. We had to gybe a couple of times for traffic and ended up almost dead downwind to pass leaward of Diamond Rock without having to gybe again. Then we just had to continue to harden up, past Solomon’s Point, past Anse Noir where a white sand beach sits next to a black sand beach, then as close hauled as we could set us right up into the anchorage under the fort. The new sail was lovely – slight crease from the clew but not nearly as baggy as the old one and still worked when partially furled. James is very pleased with it and we are now speculating what Mat’s ‘old’ main is like….

A new genoa

On the way across, we took some satisfaction in passing Diamond Rock in a French boat now requisitioned by British owners. Diamond Rock is a jagged outcrop of a point approaching Fort de France. The area’s history is dominated by the Napoleonic Wars between France and England, and the slave trade. The British rather rudely snuck over to Martinique, almost within sight of their main naval base at Fort de France, and occupied Diamond Rock. They installed four cannon and started taking pot shots at the surprised French ships as they returned to port. The Brits held the rock for 17 months, even assigning it as HMS Diamond Rock until Napoleon sent Villeneuve to liberate it. Villeneuve did so but avoided Nelson. When he returned to report to Napoleon, the latter was incensed that Villeneuve had not got shot of Nelson too, so Villeneuve sailed off to accost him directly – at the Battle of Trafalgar. Some French histories claim that they only got the Brits off by deliberately shipwrecking a vessel full of barrels of rum on the rock and then waiting until the Brits were too drunk to defend themselves any more.

Passing Diamond Rock

In contrast to the other settlements we’ve seen in Martinique, Fort de France is far more down at heel and the colour of the population darkens. There is much “negritude” graffiti and many more neglected buildings. The old town centre has the feel of the less salubrious parts of the large French Mediterranean cities, with cheap but gaudy clothes stores and dereliction. We had been recommended a fine restaurant and went ashore to book. We almost decided against it when we found the place heavily shuttered and surrounded by very seedy looking burnt-out buildings. We are glad we didn’t.

'Beheaded' statue of Josephine at Fort de France

Le Cave au Vins in Rue de Victor Hugo is really very special. The meal in this small fine dining establishment was one of the best we have had anywhere in the world but at low prices. The wine list included vintage examples worth up to €795 a bottle. We enjoyed a more reasonable 1998 Medoc with stunning aromas of tobacco, cherries and vanilla. The children enjoyed sea urchin ravioli with fresh bread, whilst we had a sea urchin cassoulette followed by a divine magret de canard “Rossini” served rare with fois gras and a morels sauce. For desert, the Elizabeth and James had a warm chocolate fondue pudding whilst Matthew and I shared a cheese plate. The children’s behaviour was impeccable in the high company so they were given a treat the following day of a Happy Meal at the first McDonalds we’ve seen since Cascais.

Le Cave au Vins