Martinique to Dominica

Another safe anchorage - St. Pierre, Martinique

Our last evening in St. Pierre was interesting. We met a group from the Ocean Cruising Club who commented on our defaced blue ensign, then as we had a small drink in a café we were hailed by the owners of Gimcrack. They had finally dropped off their first guests and were heading for Dominica en-route to Guadaloupe for their next charter. How anyone would pay good money for a week on such a small boat with no head room and rationed water is beyond me! We challenged them to a grudge match race but left before them in the event. We had to take care lifting the anchor as an American Hunter 41 yacht had anchored far too close to us – I could almost step aboard her at one point in the night – but there was no wind and the glassy clear water enabled us to watch the anchor lift as we winched it in.

We motored north initially in the lea of Martinique before the trade winds picked up off shore. Today was a great day – Dominica is the first of the “Leaward Isles” which meant we were now on a close reach giving us a faster and smoother ride. The winds and seas were slight and we raced along under full sail.

Evidence - James eating a mango (for Hilary!)

We have read that Dominica is a hot spot for sperm whale watching. Elizabeth and I did some research on these unusual whales and she then wrote a story. This included the whale getting hit by a boat propeller and then going to a turtle hospital where a hawksbill turtle was having a plastic bag removed from its stomach by surgeon fish. Matthew is slightly worried because Dominica has several active volcanos and the tale of St.Pierre has unnerved him.

It was refreshing to see a return to our friends, the flying fish. We disturbed frequent small schools of these, but many were much smaller than the ones who caught themselves mid-Atlantic. We are no longer attempting to fish as the guides suggest that the risk of ciguatera poisoning increases dangerously from here northwards. The symptoms can be severe, requiring hospitalisation and cardiac monitoring.

As we approached Dominica’s south coast, we could see why the European settlers were slow to colonise. High cliffs plunge vertically down into the sea and there are no bays or beaches. As we cleared Scott’s Head in the south west, we saw the first villages and bays. The area around Soufriere is a marine reserve and anchoring is not allowed until Roseau, the capital.

Less salubrious Roseau, Dominica

Approaching our stop, we radioed one of the yacht-friendly outfits in the pilot, but had no answer. The yacht behind tried another outfit, but again, no answer. This was in stark contrast to the instant assistance we’d had in other countries. The waterfront looked a bit spartan with few yachts anchored nor moored. We took a spare mooring outside the almost-deserted Anchorage hotel and James motored up to clear in. Again, we lacked a warm welcome – the two week clear in, clear out, move anywhere pass so acclaimed in the pilot seems to be long forgotten. We now need to wait until Monday to obtain a permit to move (another fee) then clear in again at our next anchorage, all during office hours. The hotel was equally unimpressive. We wanted to do a bit of everything – an island tour, use the pool and internet, whale watching and some diving, but the reception lacked enthusiasm.

Rainbow brightens the sparse vista of our mooring

After all our hopes for the natural wonders of Dominica, this was quite an anti-climax. We drowned our sorrows by celebrating Burns Night with a traditional meal of haggis, tatties and christophene, washed down by a fine single-molasses barrel aged rum.

Glorious sunset in Dominica