Pirates of St. Vincent

As soon as we awoke, we made ready to sail to St. Vincent. As usual, the brisk winds and swells rapidly subsided as we approached the shelter of St. Vincent until we were left bobbing around with no steerage. The motor was started and we chugged round to Wallilabou Bay.

James prefers to "walk the boom" than the plank at sea

St. Vincent is stunning close to. It is a volcanic island rising over 4000ft from the ocean, with deep valleys surrounded by precipitous razor-backed ridges all leading to the crater at the summit. The island is lush with areas of pasture dotting the rainforest further towards the coasts. St. Vincent also sees a return to large hotel complexes around the coast.

Wallilabou Bay is an exception. This tiny and isolated inlet was the set of Pirates of the Caribbean series. The set is now crumbling, especially after the hurricane of 2008, but the inlet is still a draw with its memorabilia and pirate-themed restaurant/bar.

Croix des Gardes at "Port Royal"

On arrival, we had absolutely no cash as we’d used everything we had paying for the sail in Bequia. Every man and his dog who had a boat wanted a bit of our cash and we had to work hard to convince them we really had nothing aboard. The locals offered to ferry us to the next village to an ATM but we declined, preferring to walk. Although it was only around a mile, everyone we asked for direction said “it’s’ a very long way away” and looked at us as if we were bonkers as we trudged along the Leeward Road in the noonday sun.

Matthew had another of his tizzies so Elizabeth and I went ahead. Once we reached the ‘town’ we asked for the bank and waited for the boys. We really were a spectacle in tourist-free black St. Vincent. Everyone cooed after Elizabeth, looking sophisticated in her attire. We stopped for a cool drink before heading back to find everyone engrossed in the national budget. The island appears as equally religious as Barbados with many Biblical quotations on shop windows and churches every 500 yards.

Lovely bar in Barouille, St. Vincent

Once back at the boat, we all went for a cooling swim. The reefs around the precipitous headlands are stunning and untouched. Every surface of rock is coated with coral and the fish life is teeming. It is so encouraging to see immaculate reef after the horrors of Tobago Cays.

Tomorrow we head for St. Lucia and Marigot Bay.