Sulphur Springs

We found Jalousie such a tranquil and natural setting that we had felt the need to leave our resort on the last visit. This time I wanted to see part of the UNESCO World Heritage site so we hired a taxi. Tourism and bananas are the main trade in St. Lucia and all the locals take their hospitality very seriously. There is hardly any racism or crime here towards white visitors and we felt it important to help contribute to the economy rather than sail on by.

Gros Piton at dawn

We first visited the Sulphur Springs where reeking mud bubbles from the tortured crater up from Soufriere. The stink was overpowering, but the tour guides say they get used to it. The mud emerges at 170F. Tourists used to be allowed close enough to boil eggs and potatoes in it until they realised that the ground was not stable, especially after the rains. One tour guide had been leaping over a pool when he fell in – we hear he survived, just. Slaves used to quarry the sulphur here by hand for gunpowder etc, suffering from heat and acid burns in the process.

Bubbling suphurous mud

Next stop was a little down the volcano at the Diamond Botanic Gardens and hot baths. These were commissioned by Louis XXIV and then used by Louis XXVI to reinvigorate his troops after fighting the British. They fell into disuse but were excavated last century and modern public baths added. The water is presented at a lovely 40C and varies in mineral content by the day. Further back are the Diamond Falls – an odd name as the water comes from the sulphur springs and so is a revolting murky grey from the volcanic mud. The Botanic Gardens were well presented with many informative signs – I now know what the tree the toxic chemical ricin comes from, and that this is boiled and refined into castor oil. There were other equally interesting plants with hallucinogenic and aphrodisiac properties, as well as the more familiar mango, banana, nutmeg, cashew, papaya, cocoa, coffee, mahogany and red cedar. The children ran about wildly, finding brightly coloured finches and tame lizards everywhere.

Fountain in Botanic Gardens

Back on board Croix des Gardes, we watched a large Norwegian schooner anchor under sail (superyachts are permitted to anchor as they are too large for moorings and can remain in deep water) so James felt obliged to sail out. The winds in the lea of the islands are extremely fluky and can go from calm to 180 degrees different in moments. I think James enjoyed tickling the breeze rather resorting to the engine, whilst I just watched the lush, volcanic scenery drift by. We even ended in formation with our friends in Red Hackle again, also heading north.

Matthew lost his first tooth at sea!

We shall anchor in the north of St Lucia in Rodney Bay off Pigeon Island tonight and set off for Martinique tomorrow in search of real French baguettes. The ride over will be a challenge as Martinique is the furthest east of all the islands we shall visit and we expect to be close on the wind again for the passage across.

Goodbye to Jalousie